Making Stitches 2025 CAL Bonus 2025 Square & Join-As-You-Go method

So we are in the midst of December already, and I thought I would share what I did with my Making Stitches 2025 CAL squares. Once I had laid them all out, I realised that 15 squares didn’t make for a great blanket shape. As I had gone to the trouble of designing 3 extra squares this year in addition to the 12 monthly ones, I decided to use them all.

There was the extra July ‘Tutti Frutti’ square, the ‘Bonus Birthday Bunting square’ and the ‘Bonus Granny Square Day square’ as well as the ones through from January to December. I figured I’d better knock up another one quickly to make a round 16! So now I’ve created the Bonus 2025 square as well for anyone wanting to do the same as I have!

Throughout this CAL I’ve been using my stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarn to make up all of my squares, and this square is no different. In a bid to use some of my brighter coloured yarn, I opted to be inspired by highlighter pens – well this CAL and the people I have ‘met’ through creating it have truly been a highlight of this year for me, so why not?

I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here’s the pattern for my Bonus 2025 Making Stitches 2025 CAL square!

Bonus 2025 Square

Using Stylecraft Special DK:

(A) Black (1002) 

(B) Silver (1203)

(C) Turquoise (1068)

(D) Bright Green (1259)

(E) Jaffa (1256)

(F) Bright Pink (1435)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

A small amount of toy filling

Abbreviations (in UK terms): BBL = Bobble Stitch, blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dc2tog = double crochet 2 together, dc3tog = double crochet 3 together, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, RS = right side, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

To make a 5 Tr Bobble: Bobble coloured yarn over hook (eg Red for the first fairy light), insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook – repeat this another 4 times so you have 6 loops on your hook and all are worked into the same st. Yarn over with Black yarn (Fairy lights wire colour) and pull through all of the Red loops to close the bobble. Chain 1 to lock the bobble closed. If the bobble is poking through the back of the work, gently poke it back through to the front. [When you come to work the next round, make sure you work into the first st (the one that was pulled through all the loops and leave the 1ch unworked.

To make the square:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.
Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into each st around. Slst into the top of the ch2. (24tr)

Round 3 Ch1, (2dc in first st, 1dc in next st), rep around.  Slst into top of Ch2 (36dc)

Round 4 Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next 2 sts) around. Slst into top of ch2. (48tr)

Round 5 Ch1, (2dc in first st, 1dc into next 3 sts) rep around, slst into the top of the ch1 to close the square. (60 dc)

Round 6 Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Fasten off and break yarn. 

Round 7 Join Yarn B into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 With Yarn A, join into the blo of the final st of one of the sides of the square, 2ch 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corner space. (80 htr)

Round 9 Ch1, 1dc in every st around plus 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into each corner space. Slst into top of first Ch1. (88 dc)

Round 10 Ch1 & 1dc in same st, 1dc 2ch 1dc into corner space and work 1dc into first 3 sts of the next side changing to Yarn C with fyo, make a 5tr BBL into the next st using Yarn C, change to Yarn A with fyo of BBL, with Yarn A, work 1dc into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D with fyo, with Yarn D make a 5tr BBL into next st, change back to Yarn A with fyo of BBL, using Yarn A work 1dc into next 4 sts changing to Yarn E in fyo, with Yarn E make a BBL into next st changing back to Yarn A in fyo of BBL, work 1dc into next 4 sts changing to Yarn F in fyo, with Yarn F make a BBL changing back to Yarn A in fyo of BBL, 1dc in remaining 3 sts of side, 1dc + 2ch +1dc into corner space repeat this process around the remaining 3 sides, slst into top of 1ch to close round. (Total of 80 dc and 16 bobbles).

Round 11 Continuing with Yarn A, ch1 & 1dc into same st, 1dc into every st around (being careful to only make 1dc into the top of each BBL) plus 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into each corner space. Slst into top of 1ch to close round. (104 dc)

Round 12 Ch1 & 1dc into acme st, 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into each corner space. Slst into top of 1ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (112 dc)

Round 13 Join Yarn B in any st, ch1 and 1dc into that st, work 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 dc)

To make the numbers:

Number 2 (Make 2) With Yarn D & Yarn F, Ch 17, 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in next 3 ch, 1dc in next 5 ch, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1dc in next 3 ch. Fasten off.

Number 0 (Make 1) With Yarn E, Ch 16, then work into the first chain you made in order to close the loop making sure you don’t twist the chain, 2dc in that first ch, 2dc into the next 4 ch, 1dc into next 3 ch, 2dc into next 5 ch, 1dc into next 3 ch. Slst into top of first dc to close round. Fasten off.

Number 5 (Make 1) With Yarn C, Ch 20, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 3 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 2 ch, dc3tog, 2dc in next 7 ch. Fasten off.

Once you have woven the ends in from your numbers, place them in the centre of your square and once you are happy with their placement, sew them securely onto it.

That’s your Bonus 2025 square finished! Time to join the squares all together.

How I joined my squares:

Once I’d completed all of my square and they had all been blocked, I realised that in order to do a 3tr cluster join-as-you go, I would need a different stitch count to make the joining rows evenly spaced. By adding a 14th round to each square gave me the basis for this particular join-as-you go method.

Round 14 With Yarn B, Ch1, 1dc into every st around (1dc + 2ch + 1dc into corner spaces), slst into top of first st to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (128 dc)

Once all 16 squares had Round 14 added, it was time to get cracking with the joining. I am not a fan of sewing when it comes to crochet, so if at all possible I will join any pieces I have by crocheting them together. In order to do this, it’s helpful to have a plan of how you are going to do this. Below is my plan for joining the squares. I started at number 1 (highlighted in red) and followed along each side as shown with the arrows.

Join-as-you-go plan (JAYG)

Begin at the bottom left hand side of square number 1, work 3tr cluster in corner square, (miss next 2 sts, and work another 3tr cluster) rep along bottom of square to corner. Work 3tr cluster + 2ch + 3tr cluster into corner space and continue in the same fashion up to to the top of the 2nd side. At this point we need to join to square number 2. Ch1 and then work 3tr cluster into the corner space of square number 2 as shown in 3rd photo below.

At this stage, take your hook out of the loop and put it through the gap between the last 2 tr clusters on square one. Pull the loop up through that gap, miss the next 2 sts and work a 3tr cluster into the next st. Continue down the side making sure you pull your loop through the gaps on the side of square 1 until you reach the bottom corner. In the corner work a 3tr cluster, ch 2 remove loop from hook and pull it through the corner ch space on square 1 before making a 2nd 3tr cluster in that corner space on square 2 then continue along the bottom of square 2 as shown in the JAYG plan above as arrow 4.

Turn the corner of square 2 as you did on square 1 and work back up to the top before joining square 3 in the same fashion. Repeat the process to join Square 4 but once you have worked along the bottom of square 4 (arrow 10), you need to slst into the top of the first st of the first 3tr cluster, then turn your work to join square 5 along the bottom edge.

When you reach the end of the top of square 5, in the corner space work 3tr cluster ch 1, take loop off hook and pull it through the opposite corner on square 3, ch1 and work 2nd 3tr cluster in the corner space of square 5 before working back down the side edge of square 5 (arrow 12). Join square 6 and work back up to the top right hand corner of square 6 before joining the final 4th corner to the opposite corner space as shown above.

Continue joining the 6th, 7th & 8th squares as shown in the plan above, then work along the bottom of all 4 squares before embarking on square 9 as detailed in the plan.

Once you have joined all your squares, work back along the bottom edge (arrow 34), up the side (arrow 35), along the top (arrow 36) and back down to where you began on the bottom left corner of square 1 (arrow 37). In the corner space, work 3tr cluster, ch2 and slst into the top of the first st.

Fasten off and weave in all your ends. After this, I worked another 3 rounds of 3tr clusters then changed to a darker grey (Graphite 1063) for a round of 1dc around.

My border

And that truly is it for this Making Stitches 2025 CAL. I’d like to say a huge thank you to everyone who has joined in with this, my first ever CAL. It’s been a real learning experience for me and one which has been such a lot of fun. I’m thrilled that together we have made it through to the finish – there’s nothing more satisfying than having a finished project!

So as this year comes to a close, thank you for keeping me company throughout 2025 with this fun crochet adventure. I am not going to be starting a new CAL in January for next year, I think I need a little break to give my brain room to ponder some ideas I have for future crochet projects, but as soon as I’m ready to share my next crochet adventure with you, I will let you know!

Have a lovely Christmas and I hope 2026 brings you lots of happiness & creativity.

Happy hooking,

Lindsay x

PS If you do decide to make a Bonus 2025 Square, or for that matter, any of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL square, please, if you share it online, I would love it if you could use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see any squares when they appear!

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Twelve : December

Well here we are on 1st December! I’m so thrilled to have been able to share this 2025 Crochet Along with you all year. It genuinely doesn’t feel like long ago that I thought, during that time between Christmas and New Year, that I would like to host a monthly crochet along. I wondered whether I’d be able to sustain it, or whether anyone would be interested in and join in. I’m so glad I had a go and didn’t listen to my inner doubts as it’s been a lot of fun and it’s been so lovely to be able to share it with you.

Part 12, follows the same sort of pattern as the 11 preceding monthly squares with a circular pattern at its heart and a border to reflect the time of year. My December centre is a traditional Christmas wreath and my border this time is inspired by Christmas lights – particularly the loud, gaudy coloured ones we had on our tree when I was a child growing up in the late 70s and 80s.

The whole point of this 2025 CAL has been to create a fun way of stash busting to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I will include the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

In addition to the Stylecraft Special DK I also used some glittery gold coloured yarn from my stash which is called Sparkle by Claire in Glam Gold (003).

Here’s the pattern for my December Making Stitches 2025 CAL square!

December : Christmas Decorations

Using Stylecraft Special DK:

(A) Cypress (1824) 

(B) Green (1116)

(C) Poppy (2170)

(D) Gold yarn – Sparkle by Claire in Glam Gold (003)

(E) Black (1002)

(F) Citron (1263)

(G) Aster (1003)

(H) Jaffa (1256)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

A small amount of toy filling

Abbreviations (in UK terms): BBL = Bobble Stitch, blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, RS = right side, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

To make a 5 Tr Bobble: Bobble coloured yarn over hook (eg Red for the first fairy light), insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook – repeat this another 4 times so you have 6 loops on your hook and all are worked into the same st. Yarn over with Black yarn (Fairy lights wire colour) and pull through all of the Red loops to close the bobble. Chain 1 to lock the bobble closed. If the bobble is poking through the back of the work, gently poke it back through to the front. [When you come to work the next round, make sure you work into the first st (the one that was pulled through all the loops and leave the 1ch unworked.

To make the square:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.
Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into each st around. Slst into the top of the ch2. Put this stitch onto a stitch marker.  (24tr)

Round 3A Join Yarn B into flo of first st and working in the flo around this round, ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next st), rep around.  Slst into top of Ch2 (36tr)

Round 4A Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next 2 sts) around. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off and break yarn. (48tr)

Round 3B Remove the stitch marker at the end of Round 2, ch2 and working into blo of 1st st, ch2, (2htr in first st, 1htr in next st) rep around. Slst into top of ch2. (36 htr)

Round 4B Ch2, (2htr in first st, 1htr in next two sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch2. (48 htr)

Round 5 You will be joining the front wreath section (Round 4A) and background (Round 4B) together in this round, and you can add a small amount of toy filling between the layers to make the ring stand proud if you want to.

Continuing to work with Yarn A, ch1, work 2dc into the first sts of both Round 4A & 4B, then 1dc into next 3 sts, (2dc in first st, 1dc into next 3 sts) rep around, slst into the top of the ch1 to close the square. (60 dc)

Round 6 With Yarn A ch1, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts changing to Yarn B in fyo of 3rd st, with Yarn B 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 st, 1dc in next 3 sts slst into top of ch1 to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. 

Make bow: With yarn C, Ch31, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook and work 1dc into the remain chains. (30dc) Turn, ch1 and work 1dc into each st. Fasten off and break yarn. Then ch9, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc along the ch. Turn, ch1 and work 1dc into each st. Fasten off and break yarn. Arrange the longer strip to look like a bow with 2 loops, then wrap the shorter strip around the centre to look like the knot and stitch it into place securely. Then sew the bow to the wreath.

Round 7 Join Yarn D into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 With Yarn A, join into the blo of the final st of one of the sides of the square, ch2 & 1tr in the blo of that st, in corner space work 1tr + 2ch + 1tr, then working in the blo around, continue with (1dtr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr,) and repeat to penultimate st of each side, work 1tr into final st, and 1tr +2ch +1tr into the corner space. Repeat around and slst into the top of the ch2 at the start of the round. Fasten of and break yarn. (80 sts)

Round 9 With Yarn E, join in the blo of the final st of one of the sides,  ch2 & 1dc into that st, 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into corner space, and work 1dc into first st of the next side. Make a 5tr bobble into the next st using Yarn C, change to Yarn E in fyo of BBL and close the bobble (see instructions above if you are unfamiliar with bobbles). Using Yarn E, work 1dc into blo of next 2 sts changing to Yarn F in fyo then work BBL into next st changing back to Yarn E in fyo of BBL, with Yarn E 1dc into blo of next 2 sts changing to Yarn G with fyo, BBL using Yarn G changing back to Yarn E in fyo of BBL, using Yarn E work 1dc into blo of next 2 sts changing to Yarn H in fyo, BBL into next st using Yarn H changing back to Yarn E with fyo. repeat this process across row until you have 7 BBLS of alternating colour and end with 1dc in blo of last st, 1dc + 2ch =1dc into corner space and repeat around following the colour sequence of the BBLs, slst into the top of the first st to close the round. Fasten off and break yarn. (60 dc & 28 bobbles).

Round 10 Join Yarn A into the last st of one of the sides. Ch2 1htr into same st, 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into corner space, 1htr into next st, (1htr in next st, 1dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next st, 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next st) rep along that side, 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into the corner space. NB: You will be working the dc and dtr stitches into the top of the BBLs). Rep around, slst into the top of the first st to close the round. (96 dc)

Round 11 Join Yarn D in any st, ch1 and 1dc into that st, work 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (104 dc)

Round 12 Join Yarn A into any st, rep Round 11 but do not fasten off. (112 dc)

Round 13 Ch1, 1dc into every st around (1dc + 2ch + 1dc into corner spaces), slst into top of first st to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 dc)

By the way – I can only apologise for all the ends you will need to sew in after making the multi-coloured fairy lights!

Finally, you can embellish your wreath with French knots made using the golden yarn.

And that is your 12 Making Stitches 2025 CAL squares all finished. But I couldn’t just stop there…. in total I had designed 15 squares including the two July squares, the Bonus Birthday Square and the International Granny Square day bonus square. 15 doesn’t make for a nice shaped blanket though. I thought I’d like to make a blanket using all of my squares so that called out for an extra bonus square and I simply had to have one to mark the year we went on this yarny adventure together! So, the 2025 Bonus Square was born.

I look forward to sharing the Bonus 2025 square pattern with you next weekend along with details of how I have been joining all of my squares together using a sewing free method. I can’t wait to share this final instalment of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL with you next weekend! In the meantime, happy hooking, and I hope you enjoy making your December Christmas Decorations Square.

Lindsay x

PS If you do decide to make an December Christmas Decorations Square, please, if you share it online, I would love it if you could use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see any squares when they appear!

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Eleven : November

Hello! Welcome to the penultimate square for the Making Stitches 2025 CAL! It’s the first day of November, and along with fireworks and Bonfire Night, for me, November means Remembrance of the sacrifice made by so many in our armed forces. So this month, your square is the November Remembrance Poppy Square.

At the centre sits the traditional Remembrance Poppy and around the border I chose to use some of the colours which are related to the armed forces, the Army, the Navy & the Royal Air Force. They aren’t exactly the correct shades of the different colours, but the whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project, so rather than going out and buying new yarn to make this, I used odds and ends I had in my stash.

I have made my squares using my stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here’s the pattern for my November Remembrance Poppy Making Stitches 2025 CAL square!

November : Remembrance Poppy Square

I used Stylecraft Special DK in:

(A) Black (1002)

(B) Poppy (2170)

(C) Sage (1725)

(D) Parchment (1218)

(E) Mocha (1064)

(F) Lobelia (1825)

(G) Cloud Blue (1019)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

To make the Poppy:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.
Round 1 Ch3 (doesn’t count as a st), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch1, (2dc in the blo of next st) rep around. Slst into the top of the ch1.   (24tr)

Round 3 Ch1, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off and break yarn. (36 dc)

1st Petal Rows 1 & 2 Using Yarn B & working into flo, ch2 & 1tr, 2tr in next 7 sts. Turn your work and ch1. Miss 1st st, (2htr in next st, 1htr in next st) rep five times, ch1, miss the next st, slst into last st. Fasten off and break yarn.

2nd Petal Row 1 & 2 Insert your hook into the next unworked front loop of Round 2 and repeat the petal making process as with 1st Petal.

Petal Row 3 (work for both petals) Join Yarn B around first st of Row 1 work 2dc around 2ch, 1dc into the ch1 at the edge of Row 2, then, being careful not to pull your yarn too tightly, work 1dc into every stitch along the top of Row 2, 1dc into the ch1 at the end of Row 2, then work 2dc around the last tr of Row 1 slst into the flo of Round 1 that the final tr is worked into. Fasten off and break yarn. Repeat the who process with 2nd petal.

Round 4 Join Yarn C into a st in Round 3 which is in the centre of one of the petals. Ch2, (2htr in next st, 1htr in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of Ch2. (48 htr)

Round 5 Ch2, (2tr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts) rep around. (60 tr)

Round 6 NOTE: You need to be beginning this round from a st in the centre of one of the poppy petals. If you are not in the correct position, fasten off and rejoin Yarn C in a st at the centre of one of the petals. Ch1 (does not count as a st) (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr into next 2 sts, 1tr into next 2 sts, dtr + 2ch = dtr into next st, 1tr into next 2 sts, 1htr into next 2 sts, 1dc into next 3 sts) repeat around. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. You now have a square. (64 sts)

To make the border:

Round 7 Join Yarn B into any st, ch1 work 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (72 dc)

Round 8 Join Yarn D in final st of one of the sides of Round 7, Ch1 & 1dc in that st, work 1dc 2ch 1dc into the corner chain space. 1dc in the 1st st, (1ch, miss next st, 1dc in next st) rep along the side 1dc 2ch 1dc in corner space. Rep around, slst into to the top of the first ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (12 dc in each side = 48 dc around)

Round 9 Join Yarn E in last st on one of the sides of Round 8. Ch1 & 1dc in that st, 1dc 2ch 1dc in the corner space, 1dc in first st (ch1, miss next st, 1dc into the ch space in the Round below) rep around making 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner space. Slst into top of the first ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (14 dc on each side = 56 dc around)



Round 10 Using Yarn B, Rep Round 9. (16 dc on each side = 64 dc around)

Round 11 Using Yarn F, Rep Round 9. (18 dc on each side = 72 dc around)

Round 12 Using Yarn G, Rep Round 9. (20 dc on each side = 80 dc around)

Round 13 Using Yarn B, Rep Round 9 but do not break yarn and finish off at the end. (22 dc on each side = 88 dc around)

Round 14 Note: In this Round we need to increase the stitch count for the Round from 88 dc to 120 dc to match the other Making Stitches 2025 CAL Squares. You will need to end up with 30 dc on each side. It is important that you are relaxed with the tension on this round as you won’t be working dcs into all of the chain spaces, but you want the tension to be even so don’t pull your stitches tight. Ch1 1dc in that st, 1dc in next st, 1dc 2ch 1dc in corner space. 1dc (loosely) in next 9 dcs without working any ch spaces between them, (1dc in next ch space, 1dc in next st) 5 times, 1dc in next 9 dcs, 1dc 2ch 1dc in the corner space. Rep around until you are back at the beginning of the Round Slst into top of the first ch1. Fasten off & break yarn. You should, then, have 30 dc on each side and 120 in total.

Then, with Yarn B, neatly sew around the edge of your poppy petals to fix them to the square and stop them from curling up. Weave in all your ends and your October Making Stitches 2025 CAL is complete!

I do hope you enjoy making your November Remembrance Square! If you share your square online, I would love it if you could use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see any squares when they appear.

I’m sharing this post from Gibraltar! We are visiting for the first time since we left back in 2020. I brought my square with me in case a spotted a photo opportunity. Here it is by the Gibraltar war memorial.

Also in Gibraltar, I was amazed to spot these beautiful displays of knitted and crocheted poppies! How apt. This lovely display knitted & crocheted by members of the Gibraltar community re just lovely and very effective.

Poppies on the Gibraltar City Hall balcony
More poppies adorn the Main Guard, home to Gibraltar Heritage Trust

.

Whatever you are up to this month, I hope November will be a good month for you.

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Ten : October

Hello there and welcome to Part 10 of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL!

My word, how are we at October and the tenth month already? That’s madness!

I spent quite a while mulling over what to use as the inspiration for my October square and couldn’t resist some autumnal colours – it was really hard to think ‘autumn’, when we were in the midst of some warm sunny September days! I also wanted to give a nod to Halloween, but without going down the spooky black white and orange theme. So here we are with a large pumpkin at the centre of our October square and some autumn leaves in the border.

The whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here’s the pattern for my October Pumpkin Making Stitches 2025 CAL square!

October : Pumpkin Square

I used Stylecraft Special DK in:

(A) Spice (1711)

(B) Parchment (1218)

(C) Teal (1062)

(D) Meadow (1065)

(E) Copper (1029)

(F) Gold (1709)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

To make the square:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.
Round 1 Ch3 (counts as a st), 11 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch3 1tr in same st, (2tr into next st) rep around. Slst into the top of the ch2.   (24tr)

Round 3 Ch1, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep. Slst into top of ch2 changing to Yarn B in fyo. (36 tr)

Round 4 Work in the blo in this round Using Yarn B & working into blo, ch3, (2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, 1tr in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in next st, 1htr in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in next st, 1htr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, 1tr in next st) rep. Slst into top of Ch3.(48 sts)

Round 5 Ch1, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. (60 dc)

Round 6 Ch1 (does not count as a st) (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr into next 2 sts, 1tr into next 2 sts, dtr + 2ch = dtr into next st, 1tr into next 2 sts, 1htr into next 2 sts, 1dc into next 3 sts) repeat around. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. You now have a square. (64 sts)

To make the border:

Round 7 Work in blo in this round Join C into any st, ch1 work 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (72 dc)

Round 8  Work in blo in this round Join Yarn D in final st of one of the sides of Round 7, Ch4 (counts as 1dtr), work 1dtr 2ch 1dtr into the corner chain space. (1dtr in next st, 1tr in next st, 1htr in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next st, 1dtr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next st, 1htr in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next st, 1dtr in next st, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr into corner space) rep around following the pattern until you reach the start of the round, slst into to the top of the ch4. (80 sts)

Round 9 (Please note slsts are worked through both loops, other sts are worked in blo in this round) 1slst into next st, 1dc 2ch 1dc in corner space, 1slst into next st changing to yarn E with fyo. With Yarn E and working in the blo, 1dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr in next st, 1dc in next st changing back to Yarn D with fyo. 1slst in next 2 sts changing to Yarn F in fyo of 2nd st. With Yarn F and working in the blo, 1dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr in next st, 1dc in next st changing back to Yarn D with fyo. Repeat this pattern around. No need to slst into the first stlst on this round. (88 sts)

Round 10 Rep Round 9. (96 sts)

Round 11 Rep Round 8. Fasten off and break yarn. (104 sts)

Round 12 Work in the blo on this round. Ch1, 1dc in every st around, 1dc + 2ch +1dc in the corners spaces, slst into the top of ch1, fasten off and break yarn. (112 sts)

Round 13 Rep Round 12. (120 sts)

Then, with Yarn E, surface crochet around the pumpkin and add its stripes. Then, with Yarn D, surface crochet (or chain embroidery st) the spirally tendril & pumpkin stalk. Weave in all your ends and your October Making Stitches 2025 CAL is complete!

I do hope you enjoy making your October Pumpkin Square!

If you share your square online, I would love it if you could use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see any squares when they appear!

I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who joined in with the CAL during September including Annette from @etenamakes & Kristina from @crochet_at_holme, you can see their squares here.

Whatever you are caught up to this month, I hope October is kind to you.

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Nine : September

Image shows a photo of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL September, back to school square.
A crocheted square featuring a central apple design, surrounded by colorful building blocks with letters 'A', 'B', 'C' and numbers '1', '2', '3'. The square has a black border and green background, symbolizing a back-to-school theme.

Hello and welcome to Part 9 of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL!

In my world, at least for the next few years, September means ‘back to school’ and while it’s been a long time since anyone in our house was learning their abcs, I thought it would be fun to revisit those early years of Primary school with an ‘A for apple’ inspired square for September’s Making Stitches 2025 CAL square.

This fun square has an apple at its heart, and it’s surrounded by a blackboard inspired black border (sorry for anyone who hates crocheting with black yarn or anyone who is too young to remember blackboards in school!) and some alphabet and number building blocks.

The whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here’s the pattern for my September Making Stitches 2025 CAL square!

September : Back to School Square

I used Stylecraft Special DK in:

(A) Cream (1005)

(B) Matador (1010)

(C) Green (1116)

(D) Black (1002)

(E) Citron (1263)

(F) Aster (1003)

(G) Grass Green (1821)

(H) Walnut (1054)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, fptr = front post treble, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, RS = right side, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

To make the square:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.
Round 1 Ch3 (counts as a st), 11 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch3 1tr in same st, (2tr into next st) rep around. Slst into the top of the ch2.   (24tr)

Round 3 Ch2,(2tr in next st, 1tr in next st) rep around. Change to Yarn B in fyo of last st. (36 tr)

Round 4 Work in the blo in this round With Yarn B, make 3 fptr around the ch3 of Round 2. Then count up to the 13th st of Round 2 and mark it with a stitch marker – this is where the next group of fptr sts will be worked. [Miss the next 2 sts, 1dc in next st, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) 5 times] make 3 fptr around the st marked with the marker, then repeat the section in [brackets]. Slst into top of ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (48dc)

Round 5 Work into the blo of this round Join Yarn c into the central st of one of the 3fptr groups. Ch1, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. (60 dc)

Round 6 With Yarn D ch1, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts changing to Yarn B in fyo of 3rd st, with Yarn B 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 st, 1dc in next 3 sts slst into top of ch1 to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. You now have your main square. (64 sts)

At this point, it is time to make your building blocks – you will need 6 in total, 2 in red, 2 in blue and 2 in yellow.

To make a building block:

Using Yarn B, E & F make six blocks.

Row 1  Ch5, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook and back along the chain, turn. (4dc)

Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in next 4 sts, turn. (4dc)

Rows 3 & 4 Rep Row 2. At the end of Row 4, make 2 dc in final st to turn the corner, turn square 90 degrees, work along the side of the square working 1dc into every row end, work 2dc into the corner, turn square 90 degrees, 1dc into each of the foundation chains along the bottom of the square, then turn the corner again and work back up the other side. Slst into the first st of Row 4. Fasten off and break yarn, weave in your ends.

Once you have 6 building blocks made, embroider them in chain st using Yarn D with A,B,C,1,2 & 3.

To make the border:

Border Round 1 Work in the blo in this round. Join Yarn D into any st on one of the sides of the main square (not the top or the bottom). Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. (72dc)

Border Round 2 ch2 & 1htr in every st to the corner, in corner space work 1htr + 2ch + 1htr, then 1htr in the next st.m Take the first building block you need to join (as I started the round on the right hand side of the square, in the case of the picture below it is ‘C’) hold the building block and the main square right sides together and join the building block to the main square working into the blo of the building block’s bottom edge and 1htr into the next st on the main square joining both together. Work 1htr through the remaining sts along the edge of the building block and through the next 3 sts of the main square. Then work 1htr into the next 2 sts on the main square before repeating the join with the next building block (block ‘B’ below), once you have worked 1htr into each of the 4 sts along the base of that block, work 1htr into the next 2 sts and join the next block (block ‘A’ below) the same way, work 1htr in the final st on the main square, 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into the corner space, work 1htr in every st along the side of the main square and repeat the process of joining the blocks (1,2 & 3 below) along the bottom of the main square. Work 1htr + 2ch + 1htr in the corner and 1htr into the remaining unworked sts up the side to the beginning of the round. Slst into the top of the ch2 to close the round. (80 htr)

Border Round 3 Ch2, 1htr in every st around. 1htr + 2ch + 1htr in the corner spaces. Slst into the top of the ch2 to close the round. (22 sts on each side = 88 sts in round)

Border Round 4 Rep Border Round 3 (24 sts on each side = 96 sts in round)

Border Round 5 Rep Border Round 3 (26 sts on each side = 104 sts in round)

Border Round 6 Rep Border Round 3 (28 sts on each side = 112 sts in round)

Border Round 7 Ch1 1dc in every st around, 1dc + 2ch + 1dc in the corner spaces. However, when you reach the top of each of the building blocks, join the top edge by working your dc through the blo of the building block and the border row behind it. Work 1dc into the top of each 4 st along the top of each block and 1dc into the next 2 sts to keep the blocks straight and to mirror what you did in the joining row of Border Row 2. At the end of the round, slst into the top of the ch1, fasten off and break yarn. (30 sts on each side = 120 sts in round).

Then, with yarn C, you can surface crochet around the sts in Border Round 7 to give a green stripe around the edge of the square. When you get to the corner spaces, slst around the corner edge to keep the green embellishment nice and square. Note: be careful not to make your surface crochet too tight, so the square doesn’t get pulled out of shape.

To make your apple leaf:

With Yarn G, Ch7, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in next ch, 1tr in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 1dc in next ch, slst into final ch. Fasten off and leave yarn tail to sew the apple leaf in place. Sew your leaf onto your apple.

Then, with Yarn H embroider 4 apple pips in the centre of the apple.

So there you have it, your Making Stitches 2025 CAL September Back to School square is completed. I hope you enjoy making one, or maybe even more than one!

I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who joined in with the CAL during August – it was a two square month with the Seaside Holiday Square and the Bonus Granny Square Day Square. It was so lovely to see them appearing on Instagram over the last few weeks! In particular, thanks to Annette from @etenamakes, Kristina from @crochet_at_holme, Judith from @judithlouise21 & Sarah from @sarahsheehangib – you can see their squares here.

Whether you are caught up in the ‘back to school’ chaos or not, I hope September is a good month for you.

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

PS If you do decide to make a September Back to School square, please, if you share it online, I would love it if you could use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see any squares when they appear!

A crochet square featuring a central apple design, surrounded by colorful building blocks with letters 'A', 'B', 'C' and numbers '1', '2', '3', set against a black background.

Let’s Celebrate Wreath – a crochet collaboration with Eleonora from Coastal Crochet

Image shows the Let's Celebrate wreath completed and hanging against a white wall.

Ten years ago this summer, this little blog of mine turned 10 years old. Way back when I first started blogging about my life (which at that time was mainly spent in Gibraltar) under the name of ‘Postcard from Gibraltar’ and as I shared a few of my own crafty makes, the idea that anyone would actually find my posts and read them was a bit mid boggling. I also never imagined I would one day be brave enough to begin designing my own crochet patterns.

Way back in those early days, the main advice I came across for newbie bloggers was to read other people’s blogs and interact with the blogging community. When I did that, I discovered a blog which really appealed to me. It was called Coastal Crochet, and, like mine featured posts about family life (by the sea) and crochet makes. Over time, Coastal Crochet’s creator Eleonora and I would regularly correspond with each other through comments on each other’s posts and through social media.

When Eleonora began her first crochet along ‘The Seaside Stashbusting Blanket’ I jumped straight in and joined along with many, many other crocheters around the world and I loved sharing my own progress through my blog and social media with the backdrop of Gibraltar or nearby Spain in my pictures. You can read the story of my Seaside Stashbusting Blanket here if you would like to find out about the inspiration behind my colour choices.

Fast forward a few years and, after a relocation back to the UK in 2020, a couple of years later, I met Eleonora in real life for the first time at Yarndale, it was so lovely to actually chat in person after so many years of ‘chatting’ online. Two years later, at Yarndale 2024, we met again and decided we would do something together to mark a decade of both of our blogs. This is it… the ‘Let’s Celebrate Wreath’.

We thought it would be nice to mark our joint celebration with a project which would help others celebrate too.

In our house, we have ‘birthday bunting’ which we bring out every time a birthday is celebrated in the household. Without fail, the bunting goes up in the front window on the morning of the birthday and it remains there along with the birthday cards which have been received for a week. I used our family’s birthday bunting in this photo for my Making Stitches 2025 CAL Bonus Birthday square.

When we chatted our idea through, Eleonora and I thought, perhaps this Let’s Celebrate Wreath could become something like our birthday bunting and be put up whenever a birthday is celebrated – it certainly will be in our house!

As this is a true collaboration between Eleonora and myself, it’s been designed in partnership drawing from things we are both known for; the gingham effect of the Tunisian crochet comes from one of Eleonora’s blanket designs, the ‘Picnic on the Beach blanket’, the tiny string of bunting has also featured in a similar way on one of Eleonora’s previous designs for a Life Ring Wreath.

From my side of things, I have designed a number of amigurumi dolls and other things which I have shared both on this blog and in my Etsy pattern shop so I have created the pattern for the balloons and the birthday cake following the amigurmi technique of crocheting in the round.

In order to create your own Let’s Celebrate Wreath, you will need to visit Eleanora’s blog in order to find the pattern for the gingham wreath cover and the little string of bunting, you can find my pattern for the balloons and the birthday cake below.

Pattern to make the ‘Let’s Celebrate’ balloons Part of the Let’s Celebrate Wreath

By Eleonora Tully & Lindsay Weston

Materials

We used 4-ply yarn, ‘Scheepjes Catona’, as detailed below, but any 4-ply or DK weight yarns, especially cottons, can be used to achieve similar results.

Scheepjes Catona (100% cotton, 50g / 125m), Royal Orange (189), Lemon (280), Emerald Green (515), Powder Blue (384)

  • 2.5mm (US C/2) hook
  • A small amount of soft toy filling
  • A stitch marker is useful to mark the first stitch of each round

Tension

Tension is not critical for this project.

Measurements

The finished balloons are approximately 75mm long and 45mm wide.

Pattern notes

The balloons are worked in the round using the amigurumi technique of crochet. It is useful to mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker and move it as each round is completed. Once they are all finished, they can be sewn onto the wreath base (the pattern for which can be found at coastalcrochet.com). Please use the photos as a guide for where to position and sew the decorations onto the wreath base.

Abbreviations in UK terms:

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

mc: Magic Circle/Magic Ring

mm: millimetres

rep: repeat

st(s): stitch(es)

To work:

Using a 2.5mm hook and yarn make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 2dc in every st around. (12dc)

Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (18dc)

Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (20dc)

Round 5 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (22dc)

Round 6 (1dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (24dc)

Round 7 (1dc into next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (26dc)

Rounds 8 & 9 1dc in every st around. (26dc)

Round 10 (1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (28dc)

Rounds 11 & 12 1dc in every st around. (28dc)

Round 13 (1dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (26dc)

Round 14 1dc in every st around. (26dc)

Round 15 (1dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (24dc)

Round 16 (1dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) rep around. (20dc)

Round 17 (1dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) rep around. (16dc)

Round 18 (1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) rep around. (12dc)

At this point, stuff the balloon. Don’t stuff it too firmly though as you want it to be oval rather than round when viewed from the top, so it lies nicely against the wreath when it’s attached.

Round 19 dc2tog around. (6dc)

Round 20 1dc into every st around. (6dc)

Round 21 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (9dc).

Fasten off with a slst and break yarn. Sew in the end. 

Make 4 balloons for the wreath, one in each colour. 

Pattern to make the ‘Let’s Celebrate’ birthday cake

Image of amigurumi birthday cake

Materials

We used 4-ply yarn, ‘Scheepjes Catona’, as detailed below, but any 4-ply or DK weight yarns, especially cottons, can be used to achieve similar results.

Scheepjes Catona (100% cotton, 50g / 125m), Snow White (106), Hot Red (115), Lemon (280), Powder Blue (384), Camel (502)

  • 2.5mm (US C/2) hook
  • A small amount of soft toy filling
  • A stitch marker is useful to mark the first stitch of each round

Pattern notes

The cake is worked in the round using the amigurumi technique of crochet. It is useful to mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker and move it as each round is completed. You will need to make all the components of the cake (the top, the base, the candle and the flame before joining the cake top to the cake base).

Once it’s complete, it can be sewn onto the wreath base (the pattern for which can be found at coastalcrochet.com). Please use the photos as a guide for where to position and sew the decorations onto the wreath base.

Abbreviations in UK terms:

BBL: This is a 4tr bobble stitch [yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times (you will then have 5 loops on your hook) yo and draw through all the loops on the hook]

blo: blo

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

flo: front loop only

fyo: final yarn over 

mc: Magic Circle/Magic Ring

mm: millimetres

rep: repeat

st(s): stitch(es)

yo: yarn over

To make the cake base:

Using 2.5mm hook and Camel yarn, make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 2dc in every st around. (12dc)

Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (18dc)

Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. (24dc)

Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. (30dc)

Round 6 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4 sts) rep around. (36dc)

Round 7 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5 sts) rep around. (42dc)

Round 8 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 6 sts) rep around. (48dc)

Round 9 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7 sts) rep around. (54dc)

Round 10 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep around. (60dc)

Round 11 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 9 sts) rep around. (66dc)

Round 12 Working in blo, 1dc in every st around. (66dc)

(From now on the st count for the rounds will remain at 66dc.)

Round 13 1dc in every st around.

Rounds 14 & 15 Rep Round 13 but change to Hot Red in fyo of Round 15

Round 16 Working in blo, 1dc in every st around, changing to Snow White in fyo of Round 16.

Round 17 Working in the blo, (1BBL in 1st st, 1ch, miss the next st) rep around (on this occasion slst into the top of the 1st BBL). Change to Camel in fyo of Round 17. (33BBL)

Round 18 1dc into the top of every BBL & into every 1ch space between the BBLs. (66dc)

Rounds 19 – 24 Rep Rounds 13 to 18.

Rounds 25 – 27 1dc in every st around. Fasten off and break yarn.

To make the cake top:

Using Snow White yarn make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 2dc in every st around. (12dc)

Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (18dc)

Round 4A Working in the flo, (BBL in first st, slst into next st) rep around. (9 BBL)

Round 4B Working in the blo, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. (24dc)

Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. (30dc)

Round 6 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4 sts) rep around. (36dc)

Round 7 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5 sts) rep around. (42dc)

Rounds 8 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 6 sts) rep around. (48dc)

Round 9 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7 sts) rep around. (54dc)

Round 10 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep around. (60dc)

Round 11A Working in the flo, (BBL in first st, slst into next st) rep around. Fasten off and break yarn. (30 BBL) 

Round 11B Join Camel yarn and working into the blo, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 9 sts) rep around. (66dc) 

Do not break yarn as you will be using it to crochet the top to the base once the candle has been added to the centre of the cake top.

To make the candle:

Using Powder Blue yarn, make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 Working in the blo, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep. (8dc)

Rounds 3 – 12 1dc into every st around. Fasten off and break yarn leaving a tail to sew it to the cake top. 

To make the candle flame:

Using Lemon yarn, make a MC

Round 1 Work 3dc and 1tr into the MC, then 2ch & slst into the 1st ch to form a picot, work 1tr and 3dc into the MC. Pull the ring tight. Fasten off and break yarn leaving a tail to sew the flame to the top of the candle. (6dc, 2tr & 1 picot).

To assemble the cake:

First of all, sew the flame onto the top of the candle and attach it firmly, weave in the ends of the Lemon yarn. Then stuff the candle firmly with toy filling. This is a bit fiddly but if you have a long thin implement to help force the stuffing in that is helpful (a chopstick is great for this purpose!).

Once the candle is stuffed firmly, sew it securely to the centre of the cake top. Once it is securely in place, it’s time to attach the cake top to the cake base. This can be done by sewing it together, but I prefer to crochet it on working through both the edge of the cake top and top the last round of the cake base, as it’s really neat.

Take the cake base and the cake top wrong sides together and put the hook through the first st of Round 11B on the cake top and then one of the sts of the final round on the cake base and work 1dc into it. Then proceed to make 1dc into every st around working through both the cake top and the cake base. Once you are two thirds of the way round, this is a good time to stop and fill the cake with toy filling. You don’t want to over stuff it as that will result in a rounded bottom to your cake, but you need enough stuffing for it to hold its shape. You can always add a bit more just before you close the hole, so if you are usure, carry on crocheting the top onto the base and stop when you still have a few stitches to go and you can still decide to add a bit more filling. 

When you are happy with the shape and size of the cake and you have completed the join, fasten off and break your yarn, weaving in the end. Your cake is now complete and ready to be sewn onto your ‘Let’s Celebrate Wreath’!

Once you have completed your cake, balloons and bunting, pin them onto your wreath base. When you are happy with the position of the different elements, sew them firmly in place.

Image shows the Let's Celebrate wreath completed and hanging against a white wall.

And there you have it, complete with the bunting & the wreath base pattern as detailed on Eleonora’s Coastal Crochet blog, you have your very own ‘Let’s Celebrate’ wreath!

We really hope you enjoy making it and that it brings many years of enjoyment to your home!

The latest episode of the Making Stitches Podcast features a chat between myself and Eleonora about this project and how we have become friends over the past 10 years thanks to our blogs. You can find a link to the episode show notes here.

Image shows the Let's Celebrate Wreath held up in front of a view of the English Channel on a beautiful sunny summer's day

Isn’t this photo Eleonora has taken beside the sea of our Let’s Celebrate wreath stunning?

If you make a Let’s Celebrate wreath and share it on social media, please tag myself @making_stitches_blog and Eleonora @coastalcrochet in your posts so we can both see yours!

Thank you so much for your interest in our crochet collaboration, I really hope you enjoy making a Let’s Celebrate wreath that you and your loved ones can enjoy for many years to come!

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Eight : August

Hello and welcome to Part 8 of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL! As August is traditionally a time for summer holidays in the part of the world I live in, I was inspired by our many seaside holidays from being a child myself to taking my own children away on holiday. But what could I put in the centre of my square which indicated the seaside and was based on a circle? After much head scratching and debating with myself, I opted for a life saving rubber ring, the kind of floatation device you often see fastened to a fence or sea wall near the beach or on a pier.

As luck would have it, over the past month or so, I found myself beside the seaside a few times, in Norfolk and Suffolk on the South East coast of England and on the West coast of Scotland too. That meant I could get inspiration from my trip to Norfolk and Suffolk and then use my trip to Scotland for my photo shoot! Perfect!

The whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I will include the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here’s the pattern for my August Making Stitches 2025 CAL square!

August : Seaside Holiday Square

Using Stylecraft Special DK:

(A) Aster (1003) 

(B) Stone (1710)

(C) White (1001)

(D) Matador (1010)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

A small amount of toy filling

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, RS = right side, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

To make the square:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.
Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 6 tr into MC, changing to Yarn B in fyo of last st, then make 6tr into MC, changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into next 6 sts changing to Yarn B in fyo of last st, then work 2tr into the next 6 sts, change to Yarn C in fyo of last st. Slst into the top of the ch2. Fasten off and break yarn, but mark the first st of the round with a stitch marker  (24tr)

Round 3A Join Yarn C into flo of first st and working in the flo around this round, ch2, 2tr in first st, 1tr in next st, change to Yarn D in fyo of last st, [2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, change to Yarn C in fyo of last st, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next st) x2 change to Yarn D with fyo,] x3 times, then with Yarn D 2tr in next st, 1tr in next change to Yarn C, 2tr in next st, 1tr in final st.  Slst into top of Ch2 (36tr) (You should have 4 red stripes).

Round 4A With Yarn C, Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next 2 sts) around making sure you work white stitches into white stitches and red into the red stitches of the previous Round. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off and break yarn. (48dc)

Round 3B Join Yarn A into blo of 1st st, ch2, (2htr in first st, 1htr in next st) rep around, changing to Yarn B in fyo of 18th st, continue following pattern to end of Round & changing to Yarn A in fyo of final st. Slst into top of ch2. (36 htr)

Round 4B Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next two sts) rep around following the colour change as detailed in Round 3B. Slst into top of ch2. 

Round 5 You will be joining the front (Round 4A) and back (Round 4B) of the rubber ring together in this round, and you can add a small amount of toy filling between the layers to make the ring stand proud.

With Yarn A, Work 2dc into the first sts of both Round 4A & 4B, then 1dc into next 3 sts, (2dc in first st, 1dc into next 3 sts) rep around, making sure to change to Yarn B on the fyo of your 30th st so you can continue the colour pattern as it was in the centre of the square. Once you have reached the final st, change to Yarn A with your fyo and slst into the top of the ch1 to close the square. 

Round 6 With Yarn A ch1, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts changing to Yarn B in fyo of 3rd st, with Yarn B 1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + 2ch + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 st, 1dc in next 3 sts slst into top of ch1 to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. 

Round 7 Join Yarn C into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 With Yarn B, join into the blo of the final st of one of the sides of the square, ch2 & 1tr in the blo of that st, in corner space work 1tr + 2ch + 1tr, then working in the blo around, continue with (1dtr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr,) and repeat to penultimate st of each side, work 1tr into final st, and 1tr +2ch +1tr into the corner space. Repeat around and slst into the top of the ch2 at the start of the round. Fasten of and break yarn. (80 sts)

Round 9 With Yarn A, join in the blo of the final st of one of the sides,  ch2 & 1htr into that st, 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into corner space, then working in the blo around, continue with (1htr, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr)  and repeat along the side of the square your final st will be a dc, and work 1htr 2ch 1htr into the corner space. Repeat around the square slst into the top of the first ch2 to close the round. Fasten off and break yarn. (22 sts on each side = 88 sts in round)

Round 10 Again, working into the blo around, join Yarn C into any st around ch1 and 1dc in that st, 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. (96 dc)

Round 11 Join Yarn D in any st, ch1 and 1dc into that st, work 1dc into every st around and 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (104 dc)

Round 12 Join Yarn C into any st, rep Round 11. (112 dc)

Round 13 Join Yarn B into any st, rep Round 11. (120 dc)

If you wish, you can use some Yarn C to either surface crochet or chain stitch embroider along the edge of the wave between Rounds 8 & 9 – I have left one of the squares I’ve made without the embroidery and added it to the other so you can see both. I like them both and can’t decide which I like best!

So there you have it, your Making Stitches 2025 CAL August Seaside Holiday square is completed. I hope you enjoy making one, or maybe even more than one!

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

PS If you do decide to make an August Seaside Holiday square, please, if you share it online, I would love it if you could use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see any squares when they appear!

Happy making!

Lindsay x

❤️ Calling all Crocheters! Can you hook up some hearts? ❤️

Image shows 7 multicoloured amigurumi hearts

Today I would like to share something very special with you. Recently, I was contacted by a lady called Emma who works for a very special organisation – the North West and North Wales Paediatric Transport service (NWTS).

The North West and North Wales Paediatric Transport Service transports critically ill children from their local hospitals to regional Paediatric Intensive Care Units for ongoing care. During Covid, when they were unable to have parents traveling in the ambulances with their children, they asked knitters to make matching hearts for the children and their families. 

The team carry sets of three hearts – one for the child and one for each parent. The child receives their heart while the team stabilises them before the transfer, and the parents are encouraged to hold their hearts during this time. Before the transfer, the hearts are swapped over, so that each family member holds the other’s heart. 

Emma explained that although this may seem like a little thing, it helps families feel connected at such a stressful time. The NWTS team has the goal of having 3 hearts to give to each family they work with, so their hearts remain together even if they cannot physically be together during the hospital transfer.

Currently, NWTS’s supply of hearts is running low and they are asking for help to boost their supply of yarny hearts. Emma contacted me to ask if she could share my amigurumi heart pattern for crocheters to use, naturally I said yes and asked if she would like me to spread the word about the appeal. 

So here we go, if you have the time to hook up a trio (or multiple trios) of matching hearts for this very special cause, please do! You can find my little amigurumi heart pattern here. It’s a pretty small pattern which is perfect for using up little odds and ends of yarn and a teeny bit of toy filling to make it nice and plump. It works up very quickly, so you will have your hearts made in a jiffy! Also, if you are going to be joining me with my Summer Craft Challenge this year, these little hearts are the perfect palate cleanser mini project to slot in between your other wips. 

“We would be incredibly grateful for help from anyone who enjoys crocheting, to create matched hearts for the children and their families. Our team carries sets of three hearts – one for the child and one for each parent. Right now, our supplies are running extremely low, and any contribution – no matter how small – would be deeply appreciated. The goal is to provide three hearts for each family: one for the child and one for each parent, so their hearts remain linked even if they cannot be together during the transfer” – North West & North Wales Paediatric Transport

When you have made your hearts, please send them to this address:

NWTS, Room 005, Newton House, Birchwood Park, Faraday Street, Risley, Warrington, WA3 6FW, United Kingdom.

If you do decided to make some hearts for NWTS, and you share them on social media, please use the hashtag #Hearts4NWTS so we can see all the beautiful hearts as they appear. 

I would be so grateful if you would please help me spread the word about this yarny heart campaign to help make a very difficult time a little bit easier for poorly children and their parents.

Thank you,

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Seven : July

July ‘Anyone for tennis?’ & Tutti Frutti squares

Hello there, sorry for the slight delay in getting this square out to you. This month I could’t decide which design to go with so you have a choice, ‘Anyone for tennis?’ inspired by Wimbledon with a tennis ball centre and strawberry border, or, sticking with the strawberries, the Tutti Frutti version complete with an orange slice in the middle. 

The only difference between the two squares is the central circle design and the colour choices for the rest of the square. 

As always, I have made these squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns, I have included the numbers for the shades I have used below, but please use any yarn you like. It’s a perfect way of using up any small odds and ends you have left over from other projects.

Each square in the Making Stitches 2025 CAL is made to a similar basic pattern and should have 120 stitches in the final round to make joining the squares together at the end a little bit easier.

You will need:

Using Stylecraft Special DK 

(A) Pistachio (1420) 

(B) White (1001)

(C) Green (1116)

(D) Matador (1010)

(E) Clementine (1725)

(F) Jaffa (1256)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dc5tog = double crochet 5 sts together, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, fpdtr = front post double treble, rep = repeat, RS = right side, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

‘Anyone for Tennis?’ Square

‘Anyone for tennis?’ square

Tennis ball

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into every st around. Slst into the top of the Ch2 (24tr)

Round 3 Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next st) rep around. Slst into top of Ch2 (36tr)

Round 4A Ch1, in flo, (2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (48dc)

Then, using Yarn B, either surface crochet or embroider the wavy line onto the ‘tennis ball’.

To make the square:

Using Yarn C, join into the blo of one of the sts in Round 3.

Round 4B Ch1, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of Ch1. (48dc)

Round 5 Ch1, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into the top of ch1. (60dc)

Round 6 Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into top of the ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (16 sts on each side = 64 sts)

Round 7 Join Yarn B into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 Join Yarn A into any st. Ch2, 1htr into every st around. Work 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off & break yarn. (80htr)

Round 9 Rejoin Yarn A into the 2nd last st before a corner, 2ch, 1htr in same st, and next st, (1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space, 1htr in next 2 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 2 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into to the top of the 2ch. (You should have 4 x 5tr clusters on each side and 18htr on each side).

Round 10 Ch2, 1htr in the next 3 sts, (1htr 2ch 1htr into the corner space, 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo of last st, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 3 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into the top of the 2ch. (20htr & 4 dc5tog on each side).

Round 11 Ch2 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (26 htr on each side = 104htr).

Round 12 Join Yarn B into any st. Ch1 and work 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of Ch1 to close round, fasten off and break yarn. (112 dc)

Round 13 Join Yarn C into any st. Rep Round 12. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 dc)

If you wish, you can use some Yarn A to sew the edge of the tennis ball flush to the square.

The Tutti Frutti Square…

July Tutti Frutti Square

If Tennis isn’t your thing and you fancy making a Tutti Frutti square inspired by cooling fruit juices, home grown strawberries or maybe even a tipsy fruit punch, here’s how to make one!

(The centre of the orange slice can be a bit fiddly, but I think it’s worth it to create clear segments for the orange.)

To make the orange slice

Using Yarn E, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 1tr into MC, changing to Yarn B in fyo, with Yarn B work 1tr into MC changing to Yarn E in fyo. Repeat until you have 6 orange tr and 6 white tr in the MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Rather thank working 2tr into every st around as in the tennis ball, in this round, we are making 3 tr into the orange sts of Round 1 and 1 fpdtr around the white tr sts in Round 1 to make the white pithy section stand proud of the orange segments. Work every st as described (3tr into each orange st & 1fpdtr around every white st) and slst into the top of the ch2 to close round. (24tr)

Round 3 Ch 2 to begin. In this round, we are working 2tr into the first orange st of the segment , 1tr into the 2nd st, 2tr into the 3rd st of the segment changing to Yarn B with the fyo of the last st and 1fpdtr around the white st below from Round 2. Repeat around and slst into the top of the first 2ch to close the Round. (30tr & 6fpdtr).

Round 4 Join Yarn B into any st. 1ch, (2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 2 sts), rep around, slst into top of 1ch to close the round. Fasten off and break yarn. (48 dc).

Round 5A Work in the flo in this round. Join Yarn F into any st. 1ch, (2dc in flo of first st, 1dc in the next 3 sts), rep around. Slst into top of 1ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (60dc)

To make the square

Using Yarn A, join into the blo of one of the sts in Round 4.

Round 5B Ch1, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into the top of ch1. (60dc)

Round 6 Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Sist into top of the ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (16 sts on each side = 64 sts)

Round 7 Join Yarn B into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 Join Yarn A into any st. Ch2, 1htr into every st around. Work 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off & break yarn. (80htr)

Round 9 Rejoin Yarn A into the 2nd last st before a corner, 2ch, 1htr in same st, and next st, (1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space, 1htr in next 2 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 2 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into to the top of the 2ch. (You should have 4 x 5tr clusters on each side and 18htr on each side).

Round 10 Ch2, 1htr in the next 3 sts, (1htr 2ch 1htr into the corner space, 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo of last st, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 3 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into the top of the 2ch. (20htr & 4 dc5tog on each side).

Round 11 Ch2 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (26 htr on each side = 104htr).

Round 12 Join Yarn B into any st. Ch1 and work 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of Ch1 to close round, fasten off and break yarn. (112 dc)

Round 13 Join Yarn A into any st. Rep Round 12. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 dc)

And there you have it, a choice of two Making Stitches 2025 CAL squares for July. I hope you enjoy making them as much as I did!

If you do make one or both of these squares and want to share them online, please tag me in your social media posts using the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL and then I will be able to see them.

Thanks so much for joining me on this my first ever CAL, it’s been so much fun for me so far and so lovely to see some of my squares out there in the wild!

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL : Part Six

Summer Solstice Square

Hello! Welcome to June! Summer is officially here in my part of the world (although the weather may not always feel like it at times). When I think of June I always think of the midpoint in the year, the solstice – so what better symbol to have in the centre of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL June square than the sun?

image shows a selection of part made granny squares laid out on a table in the sunlight

As with my travails in April, coming up with this design (which in principle I had in my head from January) in practice wasn’t quite as simple as I thought it would be. I played with rising or setting suns, stained glass window effects and textured centres for the sunshine. It took a lot of jiggery pokery but eventually, I got there and was happy with this attempt. I do hope you approve. I had so much love for last month’s May Blossom square, that it feels like quite a hard act to follow!

As I have mentioned in the patterns for the other 2025 CAL squares, the whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Each square is made to a similar basic pattern and should have 120 stitches in the final round to make joining easier at the end.

☀️So without further ado, it’s time to take you through the steps to make the Making Stitches 2025 CAL June Summer Solstice Square….☀️

2025 Making Stitches CAL Part Six : June – Summer Solstice

To make this square, I used Stylecraft Special DK  in (A) Citron (1263), (B) Denim (1302), (C) Cloud Blue (1019).

You will also need a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, a stitch marker, and a yarn needle.

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble, FPTrTr = Front Post Triple Treble, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble, yo = yarn over hook.

In case you haven’t come across a FPTrTr before, you begin the st with yo 3 times = 4 loops on your hook. You will work around a st in a round/row below the round/row you are working. Once you have inserted the hook where it needs to be, through the front of the work, around the back of the st and back through the front of the work again, yo and draw the loop back through from around the st (you will now have 5 loops on your hook). Complete the triple treble at in the usual way – yo and pull through 2 loops 4 times.

Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

Please note, this pattern is written in UK Crochet terms.

Central Sun motif

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. Fasten off and cut yarn. (12tr)

Round 2 In this round, you will be working into the space between the stitches of the previous round. Join A into one of the spaces, ch3 (counts as a tr) and work another tr into this space, then work 2tr into every space around. Slst into the top of the ch3 to close the round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (24tr)

Round 3A In this round, you will be working into the space between the pairs of tr sts of the previous round to create the suns rays. Join A into one of the space between the pairs of tr sts from round 2. Ch4 (counts as a dtr) and work a dtr into the same space, (ch3, work 2dtr into next space between pairs of tr sts) rep around, ch3 and slst into top of the ch4 to close the round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (12 pairs of dtr & 12 x 3chs)

Round 3B Using Yarn B, join yarn into blo of an unworked st between the pairs of suns rays on round 2. Ch3 (counts as a tr) and work 3 more tr into that st, work 4tr into blo of the other unworked sts between the suns rays, slst into top of ch3 to close round. (12 x 4tr clusters)

Round 4 In this round, you will be crocheting 4dc over the top of the 3chs of round 3A between the pairs of suns rays to hide them within your work while working into the top of the 4tr clusters of 3B. You will also work 1dc over the top of the link between the pair of dtr suns rays and working that dc into the space between the 4tr clusters.

Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1dc around the 3ch and into every tr of the tr cluster and 1dc between the dtr of round 3A into the space between the 4tr cluster. At the end of the round, slst into the top of the 1st dc to close round. [Sorry for the garbled explanation – I can’t think of a better way to phrase it! Please refer to the photos below] (60 dc)

Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as a st) (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr  into next 2 sts, 1tr into next 2 sts, dtr + 2ch = dtr into next st,  1tr into next 2 sts, 1htr into next 2 sts, 1dc into next 3 sts) repeat around. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. You now have a square. (64 sts)

Border

Round 6 Join C into any st, work 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (72 dc)

Round 7 Join B into any st. Ch2 (counts as htr), working blo work 1htr into every st around and 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into every corner space. Slst into top of ch2 to close round. (80 htr)

Round 8 Ch2 (counts as htr), work 1htr into every st around, 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into every corner space. Slst into top of ch2 to close round. (88 htr).

Round 9 Rep Round 8. Fasten off and cut the yarn. (90 htr)

Round 10 In this round you will be adding extra sun rays to the border. Join A, 2 sts before a corner space. Ch1 (does not count as a st) 1dc into the last 2 sts before the corner, 1dc 2ch 1dc into the corner space, 1dc into next 4 sts, 1FPTrTr around the 3rd st of Round 7, miss the next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 3 sts, 1FPTrTr around the base of the 1st FPTrTr, miss the next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 2 sts, 1FPTrTr around 10th st of Round 7, miss next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 3 sts, FPTrTr around the base of the 3rd FPTrTr, miss the next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 2 sts, 1FPTrTr around 17th st of Round 7, miss next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 3 sts, 1FPTrTr around base of 5th fptrtr, miss next st of Round 9, 1dc into rest of sts along the side, 1dc 2ch 1dc into the corner space. Repeat this process around the square and slst into the top of the first dc to close the round. Fasten off and cut the yarn.  (80dc & 24 FPTrTr)

Round 11 Join B into any st, 2ch (counts as a st), 1htr into every st around, 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corners space, rep around and slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and cut the yarn. (112 htr)

Round 12 Join C into any st, 1dc (does not count as a st), 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. (120 dc) 

And that’s your Summer Solstice Square complete!

🌸A selection of May Blossom Squares 🌸

Thank you to everyone who has joined in so far and shared their makes on social media with the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL, it’s been great witnessing so many beautiful May Blossom Squares blooming online! I’m very much looking foward to seeing lots of sunny solstice squares brightening up Instagram in the coming weeks!

☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️

If you make a June Summer Solstice Square and you share it online, please either tag me in your post or use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see what you have done!


☀️Happy sunshining!☀️
Lindsay x