free crochet pattern

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Five : May

~ Making Stitches ~ 5 Comments

Hello and happy May Day! I hope this finds you well and ready to join in with the latest instalment of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL.

I’m loving seeing so many lovely squares appearing online as I release these patterns each month. Thank you to everyone who has joined in along the way, and if you are new here, welcome! Please feel free to join in. There is no time limit on this CAL and the more the merrier!

Last month, I went for April showers as the theme, but I was torn about that. There were so many beautiful blossom trees in my neighbourhood doing their thing and I was undecided for ages about whether to go for blossom or rain showers. As it turned out we have enjoyed a lovely spell of dry weather in Manchester where I am, and it has been very un-April like. However, I am pleased to say there is still quite a lot of blossom knocking about as we head into May, so I’ve opted for blossom for this month’s theme – I hope you like it!

As I have said before, the whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Each square is made to a similar basic pattern and should have 120 stitches in the final round to make joining easier at the end.

Let’s get blossoming…

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸

2025 Making Stitches CAL Part Five : May – May Blossom

To make this square, I used Stylecraft Special DK  in (A) Pale Rose (1080), (B) Pistachio (1822),(C) Walnut (1054), (D) White (1001).

You will also need a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, a Stitch Marker, and a Yarn Needle.

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble, mc = magic circle / magic ring, FLWR = Make a Flower (see NOTE in Round 2 of the border below), rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble.

Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

Please note, this pattern is written in UK Crochet terms.

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸

Central floral square

Round 1
Round 2
Round 3

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Working in blo, ch2, 2htr into every st around, slst into top of Ch2. ( 24 htr)

Round 3 Working into blo, ch2, (2htr in next st, 1htr in next st) rep around, slst into top of Ch2. Fasten off & break yarn. (36 htr).

Round 4
Round 5
Round 6

Round 4 With Yarn B, join into any st. Working Into blo, ch2, (2htr in next st, 1htr into next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch2. (48 htr)

Round 5 Working through both loops, ch1, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around, Slst into top of ch1. (60dc)

Round 6 Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr ch2 1dtr in the next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around, slst into top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (16 sts on each side = 64 sts)

To make your central flower:

Making the petals
Petals ready to be added to square

Row 1 With Yarn A, ch78, 1dc into 2nd ch from hook and 1dc in every ch across. Turn. (77dc)

Row 2 (Skip next 2 sts, 6dtr into 3rd st, skip next 2 sts, slst) 6 times, (skip next st, 5tr into next st, miss next st, slst into next st) 5 times, (skip next st, 5htr into next st, miss next st, slst into next st) 5 times. Fasten off and break yarn. (6 dtr clusters – big petals, 5 tr clusters – medium petals, 5 htr clusters – small petals). 

To join the flower to the square begin at the end of the petal row with the largest petals. Align the large end petal with the front loops of Round 3 and, using Yarn A, sew it into place. The chains along the bottom of the petal row won’t align exactly with the number of loops available on Round 3, but try your best to make sure that all 6 large petals are arranged evenly around this round before beginning to join the middle sized petals to the front loops of round 2. Continue in this fashion, stopping to arrange the petals around and sewing them to the nearest available front loops. You want to end up with the centre of the spiral of petals finishing into the centre of the MC. Make sure your petals are attached securely and weave in your ends. It’s entirely up to you, but I also like to stitch around the edges of the outer petals so that these lie flat to the square allowing the smaller middle petals to stand proud.

Begin joining 1st large petal in front loop of Round 3
Make sure all 6 large petals go around the outer round
Attach middle sized petals into front loops of Round 2
Flower petals are all attached

Making the border

Border Round 1 Join Yarn C into any st. Ch1, 1dc into every st around & in each of the 4 corner spaces work 1dc 2ch 1dc to turn the corner. Slst into top of Ch1, fasten off and break yarn. (18st on each side = 72sts)

NOTE: To make a flower (FLWR): Work 2tr into next st, you will be using the central space between the two sts in much the same way as a MC and work the petals in around the space. Rotate your work clockwise by 90 degrees, Ch2, 1tr along the stem of the 2nd tr, ch2, slst into the gap (this makes the first petal) rep to make 2nd petal. Rotate your work by 180 degrees & slst onto the first of the 2 tr sts. Make 2 more petals as before on this st, then rotate your work by 90 degrees again and work a final petal into the top of the two tr sts. Slst to close the flower and then you are ready to move on with the next st.

Work into the space between the two trebles to form the first petal
Repeat the process to make the 2nd petal
2nd petal is compete
Slip stitch onto 1st tr
Begin making 3rd petal here
Making 4th petal
All 5 petals are complete, slst to close the flower before moving on

Border Round 2 Join Yarn D into the last st before a corner space. Ch 3 and 1tr into that same st, work 1tr 2ch 1tr into the corner space. 1tr into the first st of that round then (make a FLWR (as described above), 1tr into next 4 sts) four times, 1tr in next st, 1tr 2ch 1tr into corner space. Rep around so there are 4 blossom flowers on each side. At end of 4th side, slst into top of ch3. Fasten off & break yarn. (16tr & 4 FLWRs = 20 sts on each side = 80 sts)

The first side of blossoms are complete
The end of Border Round 2

Border Round 3 Join Yarn C into any st, ch1 and work 1dc into every st around & 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner space. At end of round, slst into top of 1dc, fasten off and break yarn. (88dc)

Border Round 3 complete
The back of the square after Border Round 3

Border Round 4 Join Yarn B into any st, rep Border Round 3. Fasten off and break yarn. (96dc).

Border Round 5 Join Yarn A into any st, rep Border Round 3. Fasten off and break yarn. (104dc)

Border Round 4
Border Round 5

Border Round 6 Join Yarn D into last st before a corner space. Ch2 only, 1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space. (Miss next st, 1htr 1ch 1htr into next st) repeat along that side until the corner and make 1htr 2ch 1htr into the corner space. Work all 4 sides like this. When you get back to where you started with the ch2, work 1htr into that same st, ch1 and slst into the top of the ch2. Fasten off and break yarn. (28htr on each side = 112 htr)

Beginning Border Round 6
Finishing the final V-stitch on Border Round 6
Image shows the Making Stitches 2025 CAL May Blossom square
Border Round 6 complete

Border Round 7 Join Yarn A into any st. Work 1ht into the space between every st of the previous round & 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 htr)

Initially I opted for more vibrant colours when I did my first trial run (below) I had been inspired by a beautiful deep pink camellia in my back garden and forget-me-nots for the border.

Here are all 5 of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL squares together. I’m really pleased with them all!

Making Stitches 2025 CAL squares to date

Thank you to everyone who has joined in so far and shared their makes on social media with the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL, it was so lovely over the past few weeks to see lots of April Showers squares appearing. I can’t wait to see what you make of the blossom square!

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸

If you make a May Blossom square, and you share it online, please either tag me in your post or use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see what you have done!

Happy blossoming!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Four : April

~ Making Stitches ~ 4 Comments

Hello and welcome to Part 4 of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL! I decided this month to follow the weather theme and opted for April Showers. It felt a bit silly to be honest during the beautiful sunny spring days we have been enjoying of late to think about the rain, but it is normal at this time to year, in my part of the world to experience a little precipitation!

The whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I will include the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here goes for April…

2025 Making Stitches CAL Part Four : April – April Showers

As I said before, this pattern is meant to be a stash buster project however, if you would like to use the same yarn as I did, here’s what I used to make this square: Stylecraft Special DK in (A) Silver ( 1203), (B) Cloud Blue (1019), (C) Wisteria (1432), (D) Violet (1277), (E)Aster (1003), (F) Grass Green (1821), (G) Citron (1263), (H) Clementine & (I) Matador (1010).

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, flo = work in front loop only, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.
Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

Note: when working the dc rows to form the border it can tend to make the tension of the stitches a bit tighter thus making this square a bit smaller than the others. If you relax and don’t work too tightly or even move up a hook size, it shouldn’t be a problem.

Please note, this pattern is written using UK crochet terms

Central cloud motif

Round 1A
Round 2A
Round 3A
Round 4A

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2A Working in FLO (2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2tr, 2htr) x2. (24 sts)

Round 3A slst into next 2 sts, (2dc, 1dc) x9, slst into next st. Turn. (27dc + 3 slst)

Round 4A 1dc (2dc, 1dc, 1dc) x3, 1dc in next 6 sts, (2dc, 1dc, 1dc) x3, 1dc. Turn. (32dc)

Round 5A (Miss next 2 sts, 5tr in next st, miss next 2 sts, slst in next st) x5. Fasten off & break yarn. (5x 5tr shells).

Creating the square

Round 2B With Yarn A, join yarn in one of the back loops of Round 1. Ch2, 2htr into every BLO around. Slst into top of first 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (24 htr)

Insert hook into BLO of Round 1
Round 2B Complete

Round 3B With Yarn B, join yarn into any st. Ch2, (2tr, 1tr in next st) rep around. Slst into top of ch2. (36 tr)

Round 3B Front view
Round 3B Back view

Round 4B Ch1, (2dc, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into ch1. (48 dc)

Round 5B Ch 2, (2tr, 1tr in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into ch2. Fasten off and break yarn. (60 tr)

Round 4B Front view
Round 4B Back view
Round 5B

Round 6 (It’s time to square your circle) Join Yarn B into the stitch directly below the middle of the bottom of the cloud. (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + ch2 + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1 and fasten off. Break yarn. (64 sts)

Round 7

Note: when working the dc rows to form the border it can tend to make the tension of the stitches a bit tighter thus making this square a bit smaller than the others. If you relax and don’t work too tightly or even move up a hook size, it shouldn’t be a problem.

Round 7 With yarn C, join in any st. 1dc into every st around and work 1dc +2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of 1st st, fasten off and break yarn. (72 dc)

Round 8 With Yarn D, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (80 dc)

Round 9 With Yarn E, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (88 dc)

Round 10 With Yarn F, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (96 dc)

Round 11 With Yarn G, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (104 dc)

Round 12 With Yarn H, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (112 dc)

Round 13 With Yarn I, join in any st. Ch2, 1htr into every st around, and work 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into each corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 htr)

Square at the end of Round 13
Sunshine & raindrops

Sunshine (make 1)

Using Yarn G, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into every st around. Fasten off and break yarn. (24tr)

Raindrops (make 3)

Using Yarn E, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into MC, 2ch, slst into 1st of 2 chains to make a picot. Slst into top of 1st dc. Fasten off and break yarn, pulling the central tail tightly to close the middle.

Once you have completed the sunshine and raindrops, lie the sunshine partially under the edge of the cloud and sew the sunshine into place using the yarn tails. Then, carefully attach the edge of the cloud to the square and over the top of the sunshine. Pin the three raindrops into place underneath the rain cloud and once you are happy with their positioning, sew them securely into place.

Finally, weave in any loose ends on the back of the square and the rainbow border.

And your April Square is complete.

Thank you so much for joining me on this CAL adventure. It’s been quite a ride so far. I have to admit that this month’s square had me for an April Fool. Despite being, arguably, the simplest square to create, I just couldn’t get it right. Initially it was going to be an umbrella, then, once I’d settled on the cloud, I couldn’t get the shape right. Then I struggled to find the right border for it. I got there in the end! I hope you like it.

A glimpse behind the scenes at my April foolishness. Just look at all those ends!!

Thank you to everyone who has joined in so far and shared their makes on social media with the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL, it was so lovely over the past few weeks to see lots of March ‘Spring Flower’ squares blooming all over the place!

Some blooming marvelous March Spring flowers

If you join in with the April Shower’s square, please do let me see your makes – it makes my day to see them!

Enjoy!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Two : February

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Hello there! And hello February! A new month can mean only one thing round these parts, and that’s a new square for the Making Stitches 2025 CAL.

Allow me to introduce you to the ‘All You Need is Love’ square! It’s a pretty straightforward pattern following a similar route as the January snowflake square. It begins in the round, forms a central motif and turns into a square later on.

I really couldn’t decide what colours to choose, so I went for all of them (almost)! This pattern is written following the same colours as this rainbow themed square below, but it can be created using as few as 2 different shades of yarn. I can’t wait to see what colours everyone uses when some February squares get shared on social media!

Making Stitches 2025 CAL February All You Need is Love Square

Are you ready? Well here goes….

2025 CAL Part Two: February – All You Need is Love Square

When trying to think of something to feature in February’s square which was connected to the month in question, I did consider a few options, snowdrops, camellias even, but I am afraid the hearts won out. This square is inspired by love, love for the special people & things in our lives, family, friends, partners, pets & even crochet! So please forgive me for opting for the obvious solution for February, however I didn’t necessarily mean to celebrate romantic love and St Valentine’s Day, but love in general – it’s a wonderful thing you know.

This pattern is meant to be a stash buster project however, if you would like to use the same yarn as I did, here’s what I used to make this square: Stylecraft Special DK in (A) Matador (1010) for the central heart motif, (B) Silver (1203) for the background colour, (C) Graphite (1063), (D) Citron (1263), (E) Clementine (1853), (F) Violet (1277), (G) Aster (1003), (H) Grass Green (1821).

I also used a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, stitch markers, and a yarn needle.

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, flo = work in front loop only, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, MHC = Mini Heart Cluster (see NOTE below), rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

NOTE: To make a ‘Mini heart cluster’ or an ‘MHC’ miss the next st in the round, and work str 2ch 2tr into the following st ie: [2tr + 2ch + 2tr]. To make a smooth colour change, change to the colour of the heart in the final yarn over of the previous st and change back to the background colour with the final yarn over of the last tr of the cluster. Remember to leave the its immediately before and after the mini heart cluster unworked so the cluster can spread open like a heart.

You can make the square in a variety of colourways

Heart 

Round 1
Round 2A
Round 2A picot
Round 2A completed
Round 2B completed

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2A In flo, slst 1tr, 4dtr, 2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 1htr 1tr 1dtr ch2 slst into 1st ch, 1dtr 1tr 1htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 4dtr, 1tr 1slst.

[To be clear; working in the front loop only, make 1slst & 1tr into 1st st, 4dtr into 2nd st, 2tr into 3rd st, 2htr into 4th st, 2dc into 5th st, 1htr + 1tr + 1dtr + ch2 + slst into 1st ch all worked into 6th st and so on around the 12 front loops of Round 1]

Round 2B In blo of Round 1, 2dc into every st around marking 1st with a stitch marker so it’s easy to spot when you reach the end. Slst into top of first st. Fasten off and break yarn. (24 dc)

Round 3A [This is the 3rd & final Round of the heart motif] Rejoin Yarn A into the top of 1st st of Round 2A. In next st make 2tr, then 3tr, 2tr, 2htr, 1htr + 1dc, 1dc in next 8 sts, 1dc 2ch slst into 1st ch 1dc, 1dc in next 8 sts, 1dc + 1htr, 2htr, 2tr, 3tr, 2tr, slst. Fasten off and weave in the end. 

Round 3A

Square

Round 3B Join Yarn B into any st of Round 2B and ch2 (does not count as a st) 2tr, 1tr rep around. Slst into top of ch2 to close round. (36 tr)

Round 4 Ch2, 2tr, 1tr in next 2 sts around. Slst into top of ch2 to close round.  (48 tr)

Round 5 Ch1, 2dc, 1dc in next 3 sts, rep around. Slst into top of ch1 to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (60 dc)

Round 3B
Round 4
Round 5

Round 6 It’s useful to mark the first dc with a stitch marker so you know where to stop! Join Yarn B in the st directly above the centre of the heart. Ch1, 1dc in next 3 sts, (1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch dtr in next st to form corner of square, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6dc) three times, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 its, 1dc in next 3 sts. Slst into top of first ch1 to close the round. (64 sts)  

The start of Round 6 starting above the centre of the heart
Round 6 completed
Round 7
Round 8

Round 7 Join Yarn C into any st, ch1, 1dc into every stitch around and work 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner space. Slst into top of ch1 to close round. (Each side will have 18 sts – 72dc in total)

Round 8 Join Yarn B into any st, 2ch, 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corner space. Slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (Each side will have 20 htr – 80 htr in total).

Weave in the ends and sew the heart into place onto the backing square using small stitches in Yarn A so they aren’t visible.

The starting point for Round 9
1st MHC made
2nd HMC made
Round 9 complete with lots of ends to sew in!

Round 9 Join Yarn B in the last st before the top right hand corner, ch2 & 1htr into that st, 1htr ch2 1htr into the corner space. 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn D with the fyo of 3rd htr, miss the next st and make a mini heart cluster by working [2tr + 1ch + 2tr] into next st changing back to Yarn B in fyo of 4th tr, miss next st, with Yarn B 1htr in next 3 sts changing to Yarn E with fyo of 3rd htr, make another MHC (the section in square brackets above) changing to Yarn B with fyo of 4th tr, miss next st, and with Yarn B work 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn A with fyo of the 3rd htr, miss next st and work a MHC into next st, miss following st and work 1htr into next 3 sts, work 1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space and repeat the process down the left hand side of the square making your MHCs in Yarns F, G & H to follow the rainbow pattern. Once you reach the bottom edge of the square repeat the pattern as worked along the top edge and on the right hand side, repeat the pattern as worked on the left hand side. Slst into top of ch2 to close round (56htr &12 mini heart clusters).

If you don’t want to have multi coloured hearts around the border of your square you can use just one contrasting colour. Change between the background and the heart colour in the fyos as detailed above and catch the non-working yarn within your stitches to save breaking the yarn and having lots of ends to weave in later.

Round 10 Please read the instructions of this round before starting! Using Yarn B, ch2, 1htr into every htr around, and 1htr 2ch 1htr in each corner space. When you reach the sts above a MHC work 1ch to jump over the first 2 tr of the cluster, work 1dc into the ch space in the middle of the cluster and 1ch to jump over the 2nd 2 tr of the cluster before working 1htr into the htrs between the MHCs. Slst into the top of the first 2ch to close the round. (On each side: 16htr, 6ch & 3dc)

Making the 1dc into the ch space in middle of a MHC
Round 10

Round 11 Ch1, 1dc around into every st and ch spaces above each MHC & working 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner. Slst into top of ch1 to close the round. Fasten off and break yarn. (26 dc on each side and 104 dc in total)

All You Need is Love Square in Rainbow colour way
All You Need is Love Square in a 2 tone colour way

Round 12 With Yarn C, join into any st, ch1 and 1dc into every st around, working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of first st to close round. (28dc on each side and 112 dc in total).

Round 13 Ch1 and 1dc into every st around, working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of first st and fasten off, weave in all the ends. (30 dc on each side ad 120 st in total).

It was so lovely over the past few weeks to see lots of January snowflake squares being texted to me from friends and appearing on social media. If you are joining in and making a February square, please do use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see if any ‘All You Need is Love’ squares make an appearance!

Enjoy!

Lindsay x

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜🤍🩷🩵🤎🖤

Happy New Year! Anyone fancy a 2025 CAL? Part One: January

~ Making Stitches ~ 4 Comments

Happy New Year! 2025 is upon us and rather than make some resolutions I probably will struggle to maintain, I thought I’d do something I’ve been thinking about for years – hosting a crochet-along or CAL.

This New Year is a special one for me – 2025 marks this little blog’s 10th birthday (officially later on in the summer time).

It felt appropriate to mark this significant year with some crafty fun, and what better than a year-long CAL? So each month I’ll be sharing a granny square pattern which is pertinent to that particular month. My plan is to use this opportunity to use some of my considerable stash of DK yarn – Stylecraft Special DK specifically which I have left over from quite a few previous projects. By the end of the year, I am hoping the finished blanket will be a riot of colour.

A selection of CALs I have taken part in

I have taken part in quite a few CALs myself in the past with Lucy from Attic 24, Eleonora from Coastal Crochet and the special Pandemonium CAL during the Covid lockdowns with The Crochet Sanctuary ladies Lisa & Lynda-Rose. I completely take my hat off to them with their ability to get patterns out every week for a period of often a few months. I know with my schedule of work and juggling everything else that there’s no way I could maintain a weekly CAL, so I’m going to be releasing patterns on a monthly basis at the start of each month.

Each square will be themed to the month it’s released in in some way, so this month being January when it’s often very cold and frosty and we even get a bit of snow, I’ve opted for a snowflake…

If you’d like to join me, I’d love that. There’s no pressure on time, this is an open ended CAL, I intend to publish 12 squares throughout the year, and the joining method & border will appear at some point along the way. I’ll let you into a little secret – I haven’t designed all of the squares yet, so I don’t know what the finished blanket will look like. I feel very much that we don’t know what lies ahead this year for us, so in much the same way, this blanket will be a voyage into the unknown.

My pledge to you will be to release a square pattern at the start of each month and although this is meant to be a stash busting project to use up some of the excess yarn I have in my secret hiding spaces around Making Stitches Towers, I will share the yarn shades I am using if you would like to replicate the yarn I have used.

What do you reckon? Fancy joining me with a new blanket CAL for 2025?

I’d love it if you joined in. If you do and you are on social media, please tag any photos of your growing collection of squares with the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL as I’d love to see what people make along the way.

So, here goes, here’s the first section of the 2025 CAL!

2025 CAL Part One : January – Snowflake Square

I used: Stylecraft Special DK yarn in white (1001), aster (1003), silver (1203) & denim (1302), 4mm crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors & a stitch marker.

Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

Abbreviations (in UK terms): ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

Pattern:

We begin with the snowflake.

Round 1
Round 2
Round 3
Beginning Round 4
End of Round 4

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC, join round with a slst into top of ch2. (12 tr)
Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in front loop only of every st around, closing the round with a slst. (24 dc)
Round 3 work in front loop only – 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 1dtr 4ch picot 1dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, 1slst Repeat twice
Round 4 Work in back loop of Round 2, slst ch7 slst into 4th ch to form a picot & 1dtr in first back loop, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, slst, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, *1dtr 4 ch picot 1dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, slst, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr repeat from * then slst into 4th ch of first ch7.

Beginning of Round 5
Completion of 3 picots on first ‘arm’
Slip stitching through two layers to join the ‘arms’
Slip stitching around the second arm
Snowflake is complete

Round 5 Work a slst around the edge of all the sts on the snowflake. At the 6 picots work 5ch and slst into the picot 3 times into each one to form the 3 ‘lumps’ on the end of each ‘arm’. Where the two layers of the ‘arms’ of the snowflake meet, work through both layers to join them before moving on to go around the next ‘arm’. Work all the way around and fasten off white yarn and break yarn. 

Now the snowflake is complete, it’s time to work on the square.

Round 2
End of Round 2
Round 3
Round 4
Round 5

Round 1 This is Round 1 of the snowflake
Round 2 With aster blue yarn, join yarn into one of the back loops of Round 1. Ch2 2tr into that first st, 2Tr in every back loop around, slst into top of ch2 to close round, (24tr)
Round 3 Ch2, 2tr, 1tr rep around, slst into top of ch2 to close round. (36 tr)
Round 4 Ch2, 2tr, 1tr, 1tr rep around. slst into top of ch2 to close round. (48 tr)
Round 5 Ch2, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc rep around, slst into top of ch2 to close round. (60 dc)

Round 6 turning the circle into a square
End of Round 6
Round 7
Round 8

Round 6 Ch1, 1dc in next 6 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr in next st to form corner of square, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6dc, repeat around. It’s useful to mark the first dc with a stitch marker so you know where to stop! Slst into top of first ch1 to close the round. (64 sts)
Round 7 Join white into any st, 1dc into every stitch around and work 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner space. (Each side will have 18 sts – 72dc in total)
Round 8 Join silver grey into any st with 2ch, 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corner space. Fasten off. (Each side will have 20 htr – 80 htr in total). At this stage it’s a good idea to stitch the arms of the snowflake into place using white yarn to hide the stitches.

Beginning of Round 9
Round 9 finished
Beginning of bobbles on Round 10
Round 10 bobbles finished
Round 11

Round 9 Join denim blue yarn into the last st of one of the edges before the corner chain space. Work 1dc in that last st, then 1dc 2ch 1dc into the corner chain space and 1dc around as before with 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner. Slst into the top of the first st to close the round. (Each side will have 22 dc – 88 dc in total).

Round 10 Ch1, 1dc, 1dc 2ch 1dc into corner space and work 1dc into first 4 sts of the next side. Make a 4tr bobble into the next st using white yarn, closing the bobble with denim to give a clean effect (see instructions below if you are unfamiliar with bobbles). Using denim, work 1dc into next 4 sts then repeat with a white bobble, repeat this process across that edge until you have 4 bobbles and end with 4dc in denim before turning the corner. Repeat the process all the way around with 4dc, bobble, 4dc, bobble, 4dc, bobble, 4dc, bobble, 4dc on each side until you come to the last side where you work the remaining stitches after that last bobble and slst into the top of the first st to close the round. (Total of 80 dc and 16 bobbles).

To make a 4tr bobble:

Yarn over hook (white yarn in this case), insert hook into st, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook – repeat this another 3 times so you have 5 loops on your hook and all are worked into the same st. Yarn over with denim yarn and pull through all of the white loops to close the bobble. If the bobble is poking through the back of the work, gently poke it back through to the front. If you would like a bigger bobble, try it with 5 treble stitches instead.

Round 11 Ch1, 1dc into every st around working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (26dc on each side and 104 dc in total).

Round 12 With silver yarn, join into any st, ch2 and 1htr into every st around, working 1htr 2ch 1htr into every corner space. Slst into top of first st to close round and fasten off yarn. (28htr on each side and 112 htr in total).

Round 13 With white yarn, join in any st, 1ch and 1dc into every st around, working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of first st and fasten off, weave in all the ends. (30 dc on each side ad 120 st in total.

Round 12
Round 13
A finished snowflake square

And that is the end of this first part of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL. If you are joining in with the CAL, please do let me know, tag me on Instagram @making_stitches_blog and use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see how you’re getting on.

I can’t wait to see this blanket develop over the coming months! I hope you enjoy it too.

I hope the start of 2025 is a great one for you! Happy making!

Lindsay x

Amigurumi Heart – Free Crochet Pattern & Step-by-Step Tutorial ❤️

~ Making Stitches ~ 10 Comments

As we approach 14th February, I thought maybe it would be nice to share a bit of crochet love.

This is a little pattern I have been working on and I thought I would share it with you. I’ve never been a huge fan of Valentine’s Day, so instead of it being all about the romantic kind of love, why not use it as a time to show someone special that they mean a lot to you?

So here’s my gift to you, a little amigurumi heart pattern for you to share with someone special or even to keep for yourself. Although, I have to admit, they come with a health warning – because once you start, it’s quite hard to stop! I have them in all colours around the house!

Enjoy spreading a little yarny love!

Lindsay x

You will need:

  • Yarn – I used Scheepjes Catona shade 390
  • Hook – I used a 2.5mm hook for this project *
  • 2 Stitch Markers – place the stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up on each round so you can keep track of where you are in the pattern.
  • Toy Stuffing 
  • Yarn needle – to weave in the ends

* Whatever weight of yarn you use, I recommend using a hook one size smaller than the one recommended on the ball band to give a tighter fabric. For example if you use DK weight yarn which has a 4mm hook recommendation, I would use a 3.5mm for this project.

Note: This heart is made using the amigurumi technique of crocheting in the round. You will need to use a stitch marker to mark the first st of each round and keep moving it into the first st of each new round as you work.

Stitches and abbreviations:

This pattern is written in UK terms.

Dc = Double crochet

Dc2tog = Double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease *

MC = Magic Circle

Rep = Repeat

Slst = Slip Stitch

St(s) = Stitch(es)

  • I prefer to decrease by putting my hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches, yarn over hook and pull it back through.

The pattern:

We begin the pattern at the top of the heart and work downwards. This means that we need to make two separate ‘bumps’ for the top, which are joined in Round 7.

‘Bump 1’

Round 1 Work 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Photo shows the MC pulled tightly.

Round 2  2Dc into every st around (12)

Round 3 [2dc, 1Dc into next 5 sts] rep (14)

Round 4 [2Dc, 1Dc into next 6 sts] rep (16)

Round 5 1Dc around (16)

Round 6 1Dc around (16) Fasten off and break yarn. Leave the SM in the first st of Round 6 so you know where to begin the join.

Don’t worry about weaving in any ends at this point as they will be hidden inside the finished heart.

‘Bump 2’ 

Repeat Rounds 1-6 of the first bump but do not break the yarn.

Once you have both ‘Bumps’ made, it’s time to join them together.

Round 7 Put your hook into the first st of the first ‘Bump’ after fastening off (marked with the SM – see photo above) – this will become the first st of this round so move the SM into this st once you have worked it. Work 1Dc into every st around ‘Bump 1’, then 1Dc into every st around ‘Bump 2’ (32)

Close-up of Round 7 in progress with SM in place to mark first st of this Round.

Round 7 continued… By keep both stitch markers in place, it helps you see where you need to work your next stitch after the join on the other side.

The end of Round 7.

Round 8 1Dc into every st around (32)

Round 9 1Dc into next 7 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 14 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts (30)

Photo shows Dc2tog by putting the hook through the front loops of the next two stitches in order to decrease the stitch count.

The end of Round 9.

Round 10 1Dc into next 6 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 13 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts (28)

Round 11 1Dc into next 6 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 12 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 6 sts (26)

Round 12 1Dc into next 5 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 11sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 6 sts (24)

Round 13 1Dc into next 5 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 10sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts (22)

Stop at this point and add some toy stuffing into the top of the heart.

Round 14 1Dc into next 4 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 9 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts (20)

Round 15 [Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 3 sts] rep around (16)

Round 16 [Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts] rep around (12)

Add some more stuffing at this point before the opening gets too small and stuff firmly.

Round 17 [Dc2tog, 1Dc] rep around (8)

Round 18 Dc2tog around (4)

❤️And there you have a little amigurumi heart!❤️

Fasten off and break yarn leaving a tail to stitch the point of the heart closed and weave in the end.

If you want your heart to have a hanging loop, make the tail long enough to be pushed up through the middle of the heart and sew into a loop.

If there is a hole at the top of the heart between the two ‘Bumps’ you can sew this closed with a stitch or two to hide the stuffing.

Ta-dah! One heart ready to be gifted or hung somewhere for everyone to enjoy!

Just be careful though…. before you know it, your house could be full of them!

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜

If you make one of these amigurumi hearts, do please let me know, I would love to see some out in the wild! If you share a photo of your own heart creations, please tag me in on social media or use the hashtag #MakingStitchesHeart or #MakingStitchesCrochetPattern

Fancy making a colourful heart garland?

If you fancy making a colourful heart garland to spread that crochet love a bit further, you can find the pattern for this over on my Etsy shop right now!

Happy Hooking!

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Dave the Daffodil – Free Crochet Pattern

~ Making Stitches ~ 1 Comment
Presenting Dave the Daffodil

Hello there and happy St David’s Day! March 1st seems like the perfect day to share with you my latest crochet pattern; for Dave the Daffodil. Dave is one half of a daffodil couple – Cariad & Dave – a beautiful illustrated pattern for them both will be available in my Etsy shop very soon, but a basic version of Dave can be found for free below.

When I first started creating my ‘Up the Garden Path’ amigurumi people last year, I was very much guided by the seasons, beginning with Hope the Snowdrop (who’s also available in my Etsy Shop) and Saffron the Crocus and then Dave and Cariad made an appearance.

Cariad & Dave

If you would would like to have a go at making your own Dave, here’s how to do it:

Dave is made using the Amigurumi technique of crocheting in the round, so a stitch marker is a must for marking the first stitch of every round, so you can follow where you are up to in the pattern. I also made him using a 2.5mm hook which makes the fabric nice and tight and there’s no chance that you will see the stuffing poking through between the stitches and rows.

Materials I used:

Face, hands, feet and hair – I used a dark beige to pick up on the colours of the papery cases around the buds of daffodil blooms a similar yarn is Ricorumi Shade 56 – Nougat

Body – Sirdar Cotton DK 550 Olive Grove

Inner & outer Daffodil petals – Ricorumi Shade 006 – Yellow

Soft toy stuffing

7mm Black safety eyes

Stitches and abbreviations:

This pattern is written in UK terms.

Ch = Chain

Dc = Double Crochet

Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 together*

Htr = Half Treble

Tr = Treble

MC = Magic Circle

Slst = Slip Stitch

St(s) = Stitch(es)

YO = Yarn Over

Rs = Right Side

FLO = Front Loop Only

BLO = Back Loop Only

YRH = Yarn Round Hook

*I prefer a neater finish for my decreases in amigurumi which can be achieved using an invisible decrease rather than Dc2Tog. To make an invisible decrease, you put your hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches, yrh  and pull it back through.

The Pattern:

As Dave is crocheted together as you go, you will need to make his head, arms and legs first before attempting the body. His hair, cloak and crown and can be made later. The figure in brackets at the end of each row/round indicates how many stitches there are in that round e.g. (6). Please remember to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round so that you can keep track of where you are.

Head (Begin Dave’s head with Yellow yarn and work the first 8 Rounds in Yellow before changing to Nougat /dark beige in the final YO of Round 8) :

Round 1 With yellow yarn, work 6 Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 2Dc into every stitch around (12)

Round 3 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next st) repeat around (18)

Round 4 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (24)

Round 5 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 3 sts) repeat around (30)

Round 6 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat around (36)

Round 7 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat around (42)

Round 8 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat around . Change to Nougat yarn in final YO of round 8 (48)

Rounds 9-16 1Dc into every stitch around (48)

Round 17 (Dc2tog [or invisible decrease as detailed previously], 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat around (42)

Round 18 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat around (36)

Round 19 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat around (30)

Round 20 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 3 sts) repeat around (24)

Round 21 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (18)

Fasten off and break yarn leaving a long tail to sew the head onto the body later on. Place the safety eyes between Rounds 11 & 12 and 4 stitches apart. Stuff head firmly.

Arms (make 2): (Note: Change to green yarn on the final YO of round 6 and work the rest of the sleeve in green.)

Round 1 With Nougat/dark beige yarn, work 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 2Dc into every stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-25 1 Dc into every st around, ensuring you change to green yarn in the appropriate round as detailed above. (12)

Fasten off and break yarn. Darn in the yarn tail and stuff lightly.

Legs (make 2): (Note: Change to green coloured yarn in final YO of round 10.)

Round 1 With Nougat/dark beige yarn, work 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 2Dc into every stitch around (12)

Round 3 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next st) repeat around (18)

Round 4 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (24)

Rounds 5-8 1Dc into every st around (24)

Round 9 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (18)

Rounds 10-14 1Dc into evert st (18)

Round 15 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat around (15)

Rounds 16-42 1Dc into every st around (15)

Fasten off and break yarn. Darn in the yarn tails and stuff the legs firmly.

Dave’s Body

Round 1 With Olive Grove Green yarn, join yarn in the first stitch after fastening off on the first leg. Ch1 and 1Dc into the same st, then 1Dc into next 9 sts. Ch1 and join 2nd leg by making 1Dc into 1st st after fastening off on the 2nd leg. 1Dc into all remaining sts on 2nd leg, 1Dc into the front loop of the connecting chain, 1Dc into the remaining sts of the first leg. (32)

Round 2 1Dc into every st around including both sides of the connecting chain. (32)

Round 3 1Dc into next 2 sts, 2Dc into next 2 sts, 1Dc into next 14 sts, 2Dc into next 2 sts, 1Dc into next 12 sts. (36)

Rounds 4-24 1Dc into every st around. (36)

At this point flatten out the top of the body so you can clearly see the 2 sides where the arms should go. Mark the sides with stitch markers to see the midpoint of each arm position. We will be attaching the arms in Round 25.

Round 25 work out the point which is 3 sts away from the nearest stitch marker, this is where you need to begin joining the first arm. 1Dc into every st until this point. Taking the first arm, put your hook through both the front and back sts on the right hand side of the top edge and then work 1Dc into the next st on the body. Continue to attach the arm in this manner until all 6 sts across the top of the arm are attached to the body. 1Dc into the next 12 sts across the front of the body, then attach the second arm in the same manner into the next 6 sts, 1Dc into the remaining st of round 19. (36)

Round 26 1Dc into every st until the st above the beginning of the 1st arm join in Round 27, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 12 sts, Dc2tog, Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the remaining unworked sts of Round 25. (32)

Round 27 1Dc into every st until the st above the first decrease of the previous row, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the next 10 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the remaining unworked sts of Round 26. (28)

Round 28 1Dc into every st until the st above the first decrease of the previous row, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 10 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into remaining unworked sts of Round 27. (24)

Round 29 1Dc into every st until the st above the first decrease of the previous row, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 8 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into remaining unworked sts of Round 26. (20)

Fasten off and break yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the head on.

Firmly stuff the body. At this point, position the head with eyes facing forwards on top of the body, pin in place and sew the head onto the body securely.

Dave’s outer daffodil petals (Make 6)

Round 1 With Yellow yarn, 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat (8)

Round 3 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 3 sts) repeat (10)

Round 4 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat (12)

Round 5 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat (14)

Round 6 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat (16)

Round 7 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 7 sts) repeat (18)

Round 8 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 8 sts) repeat (20)

Round 9 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 9 sts) repeat (22)

Rounds 10 – 13 1Dc into every st around (22)

Round 14 (Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts) repeat (18)

Round 15 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts) repeat (16)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Dave’s Crown

Round 1 Once all 6 petals are complete, they need to be joined together to make Dave’s Crown. Take the first petal and put the hook through both the front and back sts on the right hand side of the top edge and pull a loop of Yellow yarn through, Ch1 then 1Dc into this same st, 1Dc across the remaining 7 stitches (both front and back sts) of the first petal. Then take the 2nd petal and work 1Dc across all 8 sts (both front and back sts) and continue in this manner until all 6 petals are joined with a row of Dc sts then slst. (48)

Round 2 We want Dave’s crown to be worked in the round, so the first st of Round 2 is worked into the 1st st of Round 1 which will connect the whole row of petals into a circle – remember to make this first stitch of the next Round with a stitch marker. 1Dc into every st around (48)

Round 3 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat around (42)

Round 4 Working into the FLO (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat around (36)

Rounds 5-12 1Dc into every st around (36)

Round 13 (Htr, Tr, Htr, Slst) repeat around to form frill on top of the inner trumpet of Dave’s Daffodil Crown. Finish off and break yarn. Weave in the end so that it’s invisible on both the inside and outside of the trumpet.

Then with yellow yarn, stitch the outer petals to each other at their widest part so that they stand up around the trumpet.

Place the daffodil crown onto Dave’s head positioning it along the edge of the yellow circle on the top of Dave’s head. Pin in place and then sew it to the head using the rim of back loops formed in Round 4 which should marry up with the edge of the yellow circle.

Dave’s Hair

Row 1 With Nougat yarn, Ch 40. (1Dc into 2nd ch from hook and the next 4 chains. Stst into next ch & ch6) repeat along to the end of the chain until you have 35 strands of hair. Once you rech the end of the row, ch1 and turn.

Row 2 1Dc into every st along, Ch1 and turn (33)

Row 3 Slst into the next 3 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the next 3 sts, Htr into next 2 sts, Tr into next 5 sts, Htr into next 2 sts, 1Dc into next 3 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, slst into next st and finish off leaving a log tail to attach hair to Dave’s head. Sew the hair in place just below the crown.

Dave’s cloak

Row 1 With Olive Grove green yarn ch 52. 1Tr in 3rd chain from hook and each subsequent chain. Ch1 and turn. (50)

Row 2 Slst into next 36 sts. Ch 18 and turn.

Row 3 1Tr into 3rd ch from hook and 15 remaining chains. 1Tr into the next 36 sts. Ch1 and turn (52)

Rows 4 Repeat Row 2

Row 5 Repeat Row 3

Row 6 Repeat Row 2

Row 7 Repeat Row 3

Row 8 Repeat Row 2

Row 9 Repeat Row 3

Row 10 Repeat Row 2

Row 11 Repeat Row 3

Row 12 Repeat Row 2

Row 13 Repeat Row 3

Row 14 Slst into next 36 sts. Chain 16 and turn.

Row 15 1Tr into 3rd ch from hook and 13 remaining chains. 1Tr into the next 36 sts. Ch1 and turn the cloak at right angles to begin working along the top edge.

Row 16 begin the first row of the cloak collar by working 1Dc into the end of the first row and 2Dc around the 1st Tr of the first row. Repeat this along the top edge of the of the cloak. Ch2 and turn (25)

Row 17 Work 1Tr into each of the stitches of row 16. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Now take the yellow yarn and join it in one side of the cloak where the collar joins the main cloak and ch12 to bring a fastening across the front of the cloak and then secure it into place on the other side of the cloak once it is around Dave’s neck.

Cariad & Dave

If you make a Dave of your own, I’d love to see him! Please tag him on your social media posts with #upthegardenpathdave so I can see him.

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Some of my ‘Up the Garden Path’ creations