Let’s Celebrate Wreath – a crochet collaboration with Eleonora from Coastal Crochet

Image shows the Let's Celebrate wreath completed and hanging against a white wall.

Ten years ago this summer, this little blog of mine turned 10 years old. Way back when I first started blogging about my life (which at that time was mainly spent in Gibraltar) under the name of ‘Postcard from Gibraltar’ and as I shared a few of my own crafty makes, the idea that anyone would actually find my posts and read them was a bit mid boggling. I also never imagined I would one day be brave enough to begin designing my own crochet patterns.

Way back in those early days, the main advice I came across for newbie bloggers was to read other people’s blogs and interact with the blogging community. When I did that, I discovered a blog which really appealed to me. It was called Coastal Crochet, and, like mine featured posts about family life (by the sea) and crochet makes. Over time, Coastal Crochet’s creator Eleonora and I would regularly correspond with each other through comments on each other’s posts and through social media.

When Eleonora began her first crochet along ‘The Seaside Stashbusting Blanket’ I jumped straight in and joined along with many, many other crocheters around the world and I loved sharing my own progress through my blog and social media with the backdrop of Gibraltar or nearby Spain in my pictures. You can read the story of my Seaside Stashbusting Blanket here if you would like to find out about the inspiration behind my colour choices.

Fast forward a few years and, after a relocation back to the UK in 2020, a couple of years later, I met Eleonora in real life for the first time at Yarndale, it was so lovely to actually chat in person after so many years of ‘chatting’ online. Two years later, at Yarndale 2024, we met again and decided we would do something together to mark a decade of both of our blogs. This is it… the ‘Let’s Celebrate Wreath’.

We thought it would be nice to mark our joint celebration with a project which would help others celebrate too.

In our house, we have ‘birthday bunting’ which we bring out every time a birthday is celebrated in the household. Without fail, the bunting goes up in the front window on the morning of the birthday and it remains there along with the birthday cards which have been received for a week. I used our family’s birthday bunting in this photo for my Making Stitches 2025 CAL Bonus Birthday square.

When we chatted our idea through, Eleonora and I thought, perhaps this Let’s Celebrate Wreath could become something like our birthday bunting and be put up whenever a birthday is celebrated – it certainly will be in our house!

As this is a true collaboration between Eleonora and myself, it’s been designed in partnership drawing from things we are both known for; the gingham effect of the Tunisian crochet comes from one of Eleonora’s blanket designs, the ‘Picnic on the Beach blanket’, the tiny string of bunting has also featured in a similar way on one of Eleonora’s previous designs for a Life Ring Wreath.

From my side of things, I have designed a number of amigurumi dolls and other things which I have shared both on this blog and in my Etsy pattern shop so I have created the pattern for the balloons and the birthday cake following the amigurmi technique of crocheting in the round.

In order to create your own Let’s Celebrate Wreath, you will need to visit Eleanora’s blog in order to find the pattern for the gingham wreath cover and the little string of bunting, you can find my pattern for the balloons and the birthday cake below.

Pattern to make the ‘Let’s Celebrate’ balloons Part of the Let’s Celebrate Wreath

By Eleonora Tully & Lindsay Weston

Materials

We used 4-ply yarn, ‘Scheepjes Catona’, as detailed below, but any 4-ply or DK weight yarns, especially cottons, can be used to achieve similar results.

Scheepjes Catona (100% cotton, 50g / 125m), Royal Orange (189), Lemon (280), Emerald Green (515), Powder Blue (384)

  • 2.5mm (US C/2) hook
  • A small amount of soft toy filling
  • A stitch marker is useful to mark the first stitch of each round

Tension

Tension is not critical for this project.

Measurements

The finished balloons are approximately 75mm long and 45mm wide.

Pattern notes

The balloons are worked in the round using the amigurumi technique of crochet. It is useful to mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker and move it as each round is completed. Once they are all finished, they can be sewn onto the wreath base (the pattern for which can be found at coastalcrochet.com). Please use the photos as a guide for where to position and sew the decorations onto the wreath base.

Abbreviations in UK terms:

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

mc: Magic Circle/Magic Ring

mm: millimetres

rep: repeat

st(s): stitch(es)

To work:

Using a 2.5mm hook and yarn make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 2dc in every st around. (12dc)

Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (18dc)

Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (20dc)

Round 5 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (22dc)

Round 6 (1dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (24dc)

Round 7 (1dc into next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (26dc)

Rounds 8 & 9 1dc in every st around. (26dc)

Round 10 (1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (28dc)

Rounds 11 & 12 1dc in every st around. (28dc)

Round 13 (1dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (26dc)

Round 14 1dc in every st around. (26dc)

Round 15 (1dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep. (24dc)

Round 16 (1dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) rep around. (20dc)

Round 17 (1dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) rep around. (16dc)

Round 18 (1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) rep around. (12dc)

At this point, stuff the balloon. Don’t stuff it too firmly though as you want it to be oval rather than round when viewed from the top, so it lies nicely against the wreath when it’s attached.

Round 19 dc2tog around. (6dc)

Round 20 1dc into every st around. (6dc)

Round 21 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (9dc).

Fasten off with a slst and break yarn. Sew in the end. 

Make 4 balloons for the wreath, one in each colour. 

Pattern to make the ‘Let’s Celebrate’ birthday cake

Image of amigurumi birthday cake

Materials

We used 4-ply yarn, ‘Scheepjes Catona’, as detailed below, but any 4-ply or DK weight yarns, especially cottons, can be used to achieve similar results.

Scheepjes Catona (100% cotton, 50g / 125m), Snow White (106), Hot Red (115), Lemon (280), Powder Blue (384), Camel (502)

  • 2.5mm (US C/2) hook
  • A small amount of soft toy filling
  • A stitch marker is useful to mark the first stitch of each round

Pattern notes

The cake is worked in the round using the amigurumi technique of crochet. It is useful to mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker and move it as each round is completed. You will need to make all the components of the cake (the top, the base, the candle and the flame before joining the cake top to the cake base).

Once it’s complete, it can be sewn onto the wreath base (the pattern for which can be found at coastalcrochet.com). Please use the photos as a guide for where to position and sew the decorations onto the wreath base.

Abbreviations in UK terms:

BBL: This is a 4tr bobble stitch [yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times (you will then have 5 loops on your hook) yo and draw through all the loops on the hook]

blo: blo

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

flo: front loop only

fyo: final yarn over 

mc: Magic Circle/Magic Ring

mm: millimetres

rep: repeat

st(s): stitch(es)

yo: yarn over

To make the cake base:

Using 2.5mm hook and Camel yarn, make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 2dc in every st around. (12dc)

Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (18dc)

Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. (24dc)

Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. (30dc)

Round 6 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4 sts) rep around. (36dc)

Round 7 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5 sts) rep around. (42dc)

Round 8 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 6 sts) rep around. (48dc)

Round 9 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7 sts) rep around. (54dc)

Round 10 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep around. (60dc)

Round 11 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 9 sts) rep around. (66dc)

Round 12 Working in blo, 1dc in every st around. (66dc)

(From now on the st count for the rounds will remain at 66dc.)

Round 13 1dc in every st around.

Rounds 14 & 15 Rep Round 13 but change to Hot Red in fyo of Round 15

Round 16 Working in blo, 1dc in every st around, changing to Snow White in fyo of Round 16.

Round 17 Working in the blo, (1BBL in 1st st, 1ch, miss the next st) rep around (on this occasion slst into the top of the 1st BBL). Change to Camel in fyo of Round 17. (33BBL)

Round 18 1dc into the top of every BBL & into every 1ch space between the BBLs. (66dc)

Rounds 19 – 24 Rep Rounds 13 to 18.

Rounds 25 – 27 1dc in every st around. Fasten off and break yarn.

To make the cake top:

Using Snow White yarn make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 2dc in every st around. (12dc)

Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) rep around. (18dc)

Round 4A Working in the flo, (BBL in first st, slst into next st) rep around. (9 BBL)

Round 4B Working in the blo, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. (24dc)

Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. (30dc)

Round 6 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4 sts) rep around. (36dc)

Round 7 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5 sts) rep around. (42dc)

Rounds 8 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 6 sts) rep around. (48dc)

Round 9 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7 sts) rep around. (54dc)

Round 10 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8 sts) rep around. (60dc)

Round 11A Working in the flo, (BBL in first st, slst into next st) rep around. Fasten off and break yarn. (30 BBL) 

Round 11B Join Camel yarn and working into the blo, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 9 sts) rep around. (66dc) 

Do not break yarn as you will be using it to crochet the top to the base once the candle has been added to the centre of the cake top.

To make the candle:

Using Powder Blue yarn, make a MC

Round 1 Work 6dc into the MC. Pull ring tight. (6dc)

Round 2 Working in the blo, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep. (8dc)

Rounds 3 – 12 1dc into every st around. Fasten off and break yarn leaving a tail to sew it to the cake top. 

To make the candle flame:

Using Lemon yarn, make a MC

Round 1 Work 3dc and 1tr into the MC, then 2ch & slst into the 1st ch to form a picot, work 1tr and 3dc into the MC. Pull the ring tight. Fasten off and break yarn leaving a tail to sew the flame to the top of the candle. (6dc, 2tr & 1 picot).

To assemble the cake:

First of all, sew the flame onto the top of the candle and attach it firmly, weave in the ends of the Lemon yarn. Then stuff the candle firmly with toy filling. This is a bit fiddly but if you have a long thin implement to help force the stuffing in that is helpful (a chopstick is great for this purpose!).

Once the candle is stuffed firmly, sew it securely to the centre of the cake top. Once it is securely in place, it’s time to attach the cake top to the cake base. This can be done by sewing it together, but I prefer to crochet it on working through both the edge of the cake top and top the last round of the cake base, as it’s really neat.

Take the cake base and the cake top wrong sides together and put the hook through the first st of Round 11B on the cake top and then one of the sts of the final round on the cake base and work 1dc into it. Then proceed to make 1dc into every st around working through both the cake top and the cake base. Once you are two thirds of the way round, this is a good time to stop and fill the cake with toy filling. You don’t want to over stuff it as that will result in a rounded bottom to your cake, but you need enough stuffing for it to hold its shape. You can always add a bit more just before you close the hole, so if you are usure, carry on crocheting the top onto the base and stop when you still have a few stitches to go and you can still decide to add a bit more filling. 

When you are happy with the shape and size of the cake and you have completed the join, fasten off and break your yarn, weaving in the end. Your cake is now complete and ready to be sewn onto your ‘Let’s Celebrate Wreath’!

Once you have completed your cake, balloons and bunting, pin them onto your wreath base. When you are happy with the position of the different elements, sew them firmly in place.

Image shows the Let's Celebrate wreath completed and hanging against a white wall.

And there you have it, complete with the bunting & the wreath base pattern as detailed on Eleonora’s Coastal Crochet blog, you have your very own ‘Let’s Celebrate’ wreath!

We really hope you enjoy making it and that it brings many years of enjoyment to your home!

The latest episode of the Making Stitches Podcast features a chat between myself and Eleonora about this project and how we have become friends over the past 10 years thanks to our blogs. You can find a link to the episode show notes here.

Image shows the Let's Celebrate Wreath held up in front of a view of the English Channel on a beautiful sunny summer's day

Isn’t this photo Eleonora has taken beside the sea of our Let’s Celebrate wreath stunning?

If you make a Let’s Celebrate wreath and share it on social media, please tag myself @making_stitches_blog and Eleonora @coastalcrochet in your posts so we can both see yours!

Thank you so much for your interest in our crochet collaboration, I really hope you enjoy making a Let’s Celebrate wreath that you and your loved ones can enjoy for many years to come!

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Amigurumi Heart – Free Crochet Pattern & Step-by-Step Tutorial ❤️

As we approach 14th February, I thought maybe it would be nice to share a bit of crochet love.

This is a little pattern I have been working on and I thought I would share it with you. I’ve never been a huge fan of Valentine’s Day, so instead of it being all about the romantic kind of love, why not use it as a time to show someone special that they mean a lot to you?

So here’s my gift to you, a little amigurumi heart pattern for you to share with someone special or even to keep for yourself. Although, I have to admit, they come with a health warning – because once you start, it’s quite hard to stop! I have them in all colours around the house!

Enjoy spreading a little yarny love!

Lindsay x


You will need:

  • Yarn – I used Scheepjes Catona shade 390
  • Hook – I used a 2.5mm hook for this project *
  • 2 Stitch Markers – place the stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up on each round so you can keep track of where you are in the pattern.
  • Toy Stuffing 
  • Yarn needle – to weave in the ends

* Whatever weight of yarn you use, I recommend using a hook one size smaller than the one recommended on the ball band to give a tighter fabric. For example if you use DK weight yarn which has a 4mm hook recommendation, I would use a 3.5mm for this project.

Note: This heart is made using the amigurumi technique of crocheting in the round. You will need to use a stitch marker to mark the first st of each round and keep moving it into the first st of each new round as you work.

Stitches and abbreviations:

This pattern is written in UK terms.

Dc = Double crochet

Dc2tog = Double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease *

MC = Magic Circle

Rep = Repeat

Slst = Slip Stitch

St(s) = Stitch(es)

  • I prefer to decrease by putting my hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches, yarn over hook and pull it back through.

The pattern:

We begin the pattern at the top of the heart and work downwards. This means that we need to make two separate ‘bumps’ for the top, which are joined in Round 7.

‘Bump 1’

Round 1 Work 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Photo shows the MC pulled tightly.

Round 2  2Dc into every st around (12)

Round 3 [2dc, 1Dc into next 5 sts] rep (14)

Round 4 [2Dc, 1Dc into next 6 sts] rep (16)

Round 5 1Dc around (16)

Round 6 1Dc around (16) Fasten off and break yarn. Leave the SM in the first st of Round 6 so you know where to begin the join.

Don’t worry about weaving in any ends at this point as they will be hidden inside the finished heart.

‘Bump 2’ 

Repeat Rounds 1-6 of the first bump but do not break the yarn.

Once you have both ‘Bumps’ made, it’s time to join them together.

Round 7 Put your hook into the first st of the first ‘Bump’ after fastening off (marked with the SM – see photo above) – this will become the first st of this round so move the SM into this st once you have worked it. Work 1Dc into every st around ‘Bump 1’, then 1Dc into every st around ‘Bump 2’ (32)

Close-up of Round 7 in progress with SM in place to mark first st of this Round.

Round 7 continued… By keep both stitch markers in place, it helps you see where you need to work your next stitch after the join on the other side.

The end of Round 7.

Round 8 1Dc into every st around (32)

Round 9 1Dc into next 7 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 14 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts (30)

Photo shows Dc2tog by putting the hook through the front loops of the next two stitches in order to decrease the stitch count.

The end of Round 9.

Round 10 1Dc into next 6 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 13 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts (28)

Round 11 1Dc into next 6 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 12 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 6 sts (26)

Round 12 1Dc into next 5 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 11sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 6 sts (24)

Round 13 1Dc into next 5 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 10sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts (22)

Stop at this point and add some toy stuffing into the top of the heart.

Round 14 1Dc into next 4 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 9 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts (20)

Round 15 [Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 3 sts] rep around (16)

Round 16 [Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts] rep around (12)

Add some more stuffing at this point before the opening gets too small and stuff firmly.

Round 17 [Dc2tog, 1Dc] rep around (8)

Round 18 Dc2tog around (4)

❤️And there you have a little amigurumi heart!❤️

Fasten off and break yarn leaving a tail to stitch the point of the heart closed and weave in the end.

If you want your heart to have a hanging loop, make the tail long enough to be pushed up through the middle of the heart and sew into a loop.

If there is a hole at the top of the heart between the two ‘Bumps’ you can sew this closed with a stitch or two to hide the stuffing.

Ta-dah! One heart ready to be gifted or hung somewhere for everyone to enjoy!

Just be careful though…. before you know it, your house could be full of them!

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜

If you make one of these amigurumi hearts, do please let me know, I would love to see some out in the wild! If you share a photo of your own heart creations, please tag me in on social media or use the hashtag #MakingStitchesHeart or #MakingStitchesCrochetPattern

Fancy making a colourful heart garland?

If you fancy making a colourful heart garland to spread that crochet love a bit further, you can find the pattern for this over on my Etsy shop right now!

Happy Hooking!

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Dave the Daffodil – Free Crochet Pattern

Presenting Dave the Daffodil

Hello there and happy St David’s Day! March 1st seems like the perfect day to share with you my latest crochet pattern; for Dave the Daffodil. Dave is one half of a daffodil couple – Cariad & Dave – a beautiful illustrated pattern for them both will be available in my Etsy shop very soon, but a basic version of Dave can be found for free below.

When I first started creating my ‘Up the Garden Path’ amigurumi people last year, I was very much guided by the seasons, beginning with Hope the Snowdrop (who’s also available in my Etsy Shop) and Saffron the Crocus and then Dave and Cariad made an appearance.

Cariad & Dave

If you would would like to have a go at making your own Dave, here’s how to do it:

Dave is made using the Amigurumi technique of crocheting in the round, so a stitch marker is a must for marking the first stitch of every round, so you can follow where you are up to in the pattern. I also made him using a 2.5mm hook which makes the fabric nice and tight and there’s no chance that you will see the stuffing poking through between the stitches and rows.

Materials I used:

Face, hands, feet and hair – I used a dark beige to pick up on the colours of the papery cases around the buds of daffodil blooms a similar yarn is Ricorumi Shade 56 – Nougat

Body – Sirdar Cotton DK 550 Olive Grove

Inner & outer Daffodil petals – Ricorumi Shade 006 – Yellow

Soft toy stuffing

7mm Black safety eyes

Stitches and abbreviations:

This pattern is written in UK terms.

Ch = Chain

Dc = Double Crochet

Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 together*

Htr = Half Treble

Tr = Treble

MC = Magic Circle

Slst = Slip Stitch

St(s) = Stitch(es)

YO = Yarn Over

Rs = Right Side

FLO = Front Loop Only

BLO = Back Loop Only

YRH = Yarn Round Hook

*I prefer a neater finish for my decreases in amigurumi which can be achieved using an invisible decrease rather than Dc2Tog. To make an invisible decrease, you put your hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches, yrh  and pull it back through.

The Pattern:

As Dave is crocheted together as you go, you will need to make his head, arms and legs first before attempting the body. His hair, cloak and crown and can be made later. The figure in brackets at the end of each row/round indicates how many stitches there are in that round e.g. (6). Please remember to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round so that you can keep track of where you are.

Head (Begin Dave’s head with Yellow yarn and work the first 8 Rounds in Yellow before changing to Nougat /dark beige in the final YO of Round 8) :

Round 1 With yellow yarn, work 6 Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 2Dc into every stitch around (12)

Round 3 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next st) repeat around (18)

Round 4 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (24)

Round 5 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 3 sts) repeat around (30)

Round 6 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat around (36)

Round 7 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat around (42)

Round 8 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat around . Change to Nougat yarn in final YO of round 8 (48)

Rounds 9-16 1Dc into every stitch around (48)

Round 17 (Dc2tog [or invisible decrease as detailed previously], 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat around (42)

Round 18 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat around (36)

Round 19 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat around (30)

Round 20 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 3 sts) repeat around (24)

Round 21 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (18)

Fasten off and break yarn leaving a long tail to sew the head onto the body later on. Place the safety eyes between Rounds 11 & 12 and 4 stitches apart. Stuff head firmly.

Arms (make 2): (Note: Change to green yarn on the final YO of round 6 and work the rest of the sleeve in green.)

Round 1 With Nougat/dark beige yarn, work 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 2Dc into every stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-25 1 Dc into every st around, ensuring you change to green yarn in the appropriate round as detailed above. (12)

Fasten off and break yarn. Darn in the yarn tail and stuff lightly.

Legs (make 2): (Note: Change to green coloured yarn in final YO of round 10.)

Round 1 With Nougat/dark beige yarn, work 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 2Dc into every stitch around (12)

Round 3 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next st) repeat around (18)

Round 4 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (24)

Rounds 5-8 1Dc into every st around (24)

Round 9 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat around (18)

Rounds 10-14 1Dc into evert st (18)

Round 15 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat around (15)

Rounds 16-42 1Dc into every st around (15)

Fasten off and break yarn. Darn in the yarn tails and stuff the legs firmly.

Dave’s Body

Round 1 With Olive Grove Green yarn, join yarn in the first stitch after fastening off on the first leg. Ch1 and 1Dc into the same st, then 1Dc into next 9 sts. Ch1 and join 2nd leg by making 1Dc into 1st st after fastening off on the 2nd leg. 1Dc into all remaining sts on 2nd leg, 1Dc into the front loop of the connecting chain, 1Dc into the remaining sts of the first leg. (32)

Round 2 1Dc into every st around including both sides of the connecting chain. (32)

Round 3 1Dc into next 2 sts, 2Dc into next 2 sts, 1Dc into next 14 sts, 2Dc into next 2 sts, 1Dc into next 12 sts. (36)

Rounds 4-24 1Dc into every st around. (36)

At this point flatten out the top of the body so you can clearly see the 2 sides where the arms should go. Mark the sides with stitch markers to see the midpoint of each arm position. We will be attaching the arms in Round 25.

Round 25 work out the point which is 3 sts away from the nearest stitch marker, this is where you need to begin joining the first arm. 1Dc into every st until this point. Taking the first arm, put your hook through both the front and back sts on the right hand side of the top edge and then work 1Dc into the next st on the body. Continue to attach the arm in this manner until all 6 sts across the top of the arm are attached to the body. 1Dc into the next 12 sts across the front of the body, then attach the second arm in the same manner into the next 6 sts, 1Dc into the remaining st of round 19. (36)

Round 26 1Dc into every st until the st above the beginning of the 1st arm join in Round 27, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 12 sts, Dc2tog, Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the remaining unworked sts of Round 25. (32)

Round 27 1Dc into every st until the st above the first decrease of the previous row, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the next 10 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 2 sts, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the remaining unworked sts of Round 26. (28)

Round 28 1Dc into every st until the st above the first decrease of the previous row, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 10 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into remaining unworked sts of Round 27. (24)

Round 29 1Dc into every st until the st above the first decrease of the previous row, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 8 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into remaining unworked sts of Round 26. (20)

Fasten off and break yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the head on.

Firmly stuff the body. At this point, position the head with eyes facing forwards on top of the body, pin in place and sew the head onto the body securely.

Dave’s outer daffodil petals (Make 6)

Round 1 With Yellow yarn, 6Dc into a MC and pull tight (6)

Round 2 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 2 sts) repeat (8)

Round 3 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 3 sts) repeat (10)

Round 4 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 4 sts) repeat (12)

Round 5 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat (14)

Round 6 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat (16)

Round 7 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 7 sts) repeat (18)

Round 8 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 8 sts) repeat (20)

Round 9 (2Dc into next st, 1Dc into next 9 sts) repeat (22)

Rounds 10 – 13 1Dc into every st around (22)

Round 14 (Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts) repeat (18)

Round 15 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 7 sts) repeat (16)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Dave’s Crown

Round 1 Once all 6 petals are complete, they need to be joined together to make Dave’s Crown. Take the first petal and put the hook through both the front and back sts on the right hand side of the top edge and pull a loop of Yellow yarn through, Ch1 then 1Dc into this same st, 1Dc across the remaining 7 stitches (both front and back sts) of the first petal. Then take the 2nd petal and work 1Dc across all 8 sts (both front and back sts) and continue in this manner until all 6 petals are joined with a row of Dc sts then slst. (48)

Round 2 We want Dave’s crown to be worked in the round, so the first st of Round 2 is worked into the 1st st of Round 1 which will connect the whole row of petals into a circle – remember to make this first stitch of the next Round with a stitch marker. 1Dc into every st around (48)

Round 3 (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 6 sts) repeat around (42)

Round 4 Working into the FLO (Dc2tog, 1Dc into next 5 sts) repeat around (36)

Rounds 5-12 1Dc into every st around (36)

Round 13 (Htr, Tr, Htr, Slst) repeat around to form frill on top of the inner trumpet of Dave’s Daffodil Crown. Finish off and break yarn. Weave in the end so that it’s invisible on both the inside and outside of the trumpet.

Then with yellow yarn, stitch the outer petals to each other at their widest part so that they stand up around the trumpet.

Place the daffodil crown onto Dave’s head positioning it along the edge of the yellow circle on the top of Dave’s head. Pin in place and then sew it to the head using the rim of back loops formed in Round 4 which should marry up with the edge of the yellow circle.

Dave’s Hair

Row 1 With Nougat yarn, Ch 40. (1Dc into 2nd ch from hook and the next 4 chains. Stst into next ch & ch6) repeat along to the end of the chain until you have 35 strands of hair. Once you rech the end of the row, ch1 and turn.

Row 2 1Dc into every st along, Ch1 and turn (33)

Row 3 Slst into the next 3 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, 1Dc into the next 3 sts, Htr into next 2 sts, Tr into next 5 sts, Htr into next 2 sts, 1Dc into next 3 sts, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, Dc2tog, slst into next st and finish off leaving a log tail to attach hair to Dave’s head. Sew the hair in place just below the crown.

Dave’s cloak

Row 1 With Olive Grove green yarn ch 52. 1Tr in 3rd chain from hook and each subsequent chain. Ch1 and turn. (50)

Row 2 Slst into next 36 sts. Ch 18 and turn.

Row 3 1Tr into 3rd ch from hook and 15 remaining chains. 1Tr into the next 36 sts. Ch1 and turn (52)

Rows 4 Repeat Row 2

Row 5 Repeat Row 3

Row 6 Repeat Row 2

Row 7 Repeat Row 3

Row 8 Repeat Row 2

Row 9 Repeat Row 3

Row 10 Repeat Row 2

Row 11 Repeat Row 3

Row 12 Repeat Row 2

Row 13 Repeat Row 3

Row 14 Slst into next 36 sts. Chain 16 and turn.

Row 15 1Tr into 3rd ch from hook and 13 remaining chains. 1Tr into the next 36 sts. Ch1 and turn the cloak at right angles to begin working along the top edge.

Row 16 begin the first row of the cloak collar by working 1Dc into the end of the first row and 2Dc around the 1st Tr of the first row. Repeat this along the top edge of the of the cloak. Ch2 and turn (25)

Row 17 Work 1Tr into each of the stitches of row 16. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Now take the yellow yarn and join it in one side of the cloak where the collar joins the main cloak and ch12 to bring a fastening across the front of the cloak and then secure it into place on the other side of the cloak once it is around Dave’s neck.

Cariad & Dave

If you make a Dave of your own, I’d love to see him! Please tag him on your social media posts with #upthegardenpathdave so I can see him.

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Some of my ‘Up the Garden Path’ creations