Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Seven : July

July ‘Anyone for tennis?’ & Tutti Frutti squares

Hello there, sorry for the slight delay in getting this square out to you. This month I could’t decide which design to go with so you have a choice, ‘Anyone for tennis?’ inspired by Wimbledon with a tennis ball centre and strawberry border, or, sticking with the strawberries, the Tutti Frutti version complete with an orange slice in the middle. 

The only difference between the two squares is the central circle design and the colour choices for the rest of the square. 

As always, I have made these squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns, I have included the numbers for the shades I have used below, but please use any yarn you like. It’s a perfect way of using up any small odds and ends you have left over from other projects.

Each square in the Making Stitches 2025 CAL is made to a similar basic pattern and should have 120 stitches in the final round to make joining the squares together at the end a little bit easier.

You will need:

Using Stylecraft Special DK 

(A) Pistachio (1420) 

(B) White (1001)

(C) Green (1116)

(D) Matador (1010)

(E) Clementine (1725)

(F) Jaffa (1256)

Size 4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dc5tog = double crochet 5 sts together, dtr = double treble crochet, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, fpdtr = front post double treble, rep = repeat, RS = right side, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

‘Anyone for Tennis?’ Square

‘Anyone for tennis?’ square

Tennis ball

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into every st around. Slst into the top of the Ch2 (24tr)

Round 3 Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr in next st) rep around. Slst into top of Ch2 (36tr)

Round 4A Ch1, in flo, (2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (48dc)

Then, using Yarn B, either surface crochet or embroider the wavy line onto the ‘tennis ball’.

To make the square:

Using Yarn C, join into the blo of one of the sts in Round 3.

Round 4B Ch1, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of Ch1. (48dc)

Round 5 Ch1, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into the top of ch1. (60dc)

Round 6 Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into top of the ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (16 sts on each side = 64 sts)

Round 7 Join Yarn B into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 Join Yarn A into any st. Ch2, 1htr into every st around. Work 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off & break yarn. (80htr)

Round 9 Rejoin Yarn A into the 2nd last st before a corner, 2ch, 1htr in same st, and next st, (1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space, 1htr in next 2 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 2 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into to the top of the 2ch. (You should have 4 x 5tr clusters on each side and 18htr on each side).

Round 10 Ch2, 1htr in the next 3 sts, (1htr 2ch 1htr into the corner space, 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo of last st, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 3 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into the top of the 2ch. (20htr & 4 dc5tog on each side).

Round 11 Ch2 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (26 htr on each side = 104htr).

Round 12 Join Yarn B into any st. Ch1 and work 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of Ch1 to close round, fasten off and break yarn. (112 dc)

Round 13 Join Yarn C into any st. Rep Round 12. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 dc)

If you wish, you can use some Yarn A to sew the edge of the tennis ball flush to the square.

The Tutti Frutti Square…

July Tutti Frutti Square

If Tennis isn’t your thing and you fancy making a Tutti Frutti square inspired by cooling fruit juices, home grown strawberries or maybe even a tipsy fruit punch, here’s how to make one!

(The centre of the orange slice can be a bit fiddly, but I think it’s worth it to create clear segments for the orange.)

To make the orange slice

Using Yarn E, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 1tr into MC, changing to Yarn B in fyo, with Yarn B work 1tr into MC changing to Yarn E in fyo. Repeat until you have 6 orange tr and 6 white tr in the MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. (12tr)

Round 2 Rather thank working 2tr into every st around as in the tennis ball, in this round, we are making 3 tr into the orange sts of Round 1 and 1 fpdtr around the white tr sts in Round 1 to make the white pithy section stand proud of the orange segments. Work every st as described (3tr into each orange st & 1fpdtr around every white st) and slst into the top of the ch2 to close round. (24tr)

Round 3 Ch 2 to begin. In this round, we are working 2tr into the first orange st of the segment , 1tr into the 2nd st, 2tr into the 3rd st of the segment changing to Yarn B with the fyo of the last st and 1fpdtr around the white st below from Round 2. Repeat around and slst into the top of the first 2ch to close the Round. (30tr & 6fpdtr).

Round 4 Join Yarn B into any st. 1ch, (2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 2 sts), rep around, slst into top of 1ch to close the round. Fasten off and break yarn. (48 dc).

Round 5A Work in the flo in this round. Join Yarn F into any st. 1ch, (2dc in flo of first st, 1dc in the next 3 sts), rep around. Slst into top of 1ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (60dc)

To make the square

Using Yarn A, join into the blo of one of the sts in Round 4.

Round 5B Ch1, (2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into the top of ch1. (60dc)

Round 6 Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Sist into top of the ch1. Fasten off and break yarn. (16 sts on each side = 64 sts)

Round 7 Join Yarn B into any st. Work 1dc into every st around and 1dc ch2 1dc into every corner space. Slst to top of 1ch. Fasten off and break yarn. (72dc)

Round 8 Join Yarn A into any st. Ch2, 1htr into every st around. Work 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of ch2. Fasten off & break yarn. (80htr)

Round 9 Rejoin Yarn A into the 2nd last st before a corner, 2ch, 1htr in same st, and next st, (1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space, 1htr in next 2 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn D in fyo of last st, work 5tr into next st changing to Yarn A in fyo of last st, 1htr into next 2 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into to the top of the 2ch. (You should have 4 x 5tr clusters on each side and 18htr on each side).

Round 10 Ch2, 1htr in the next 3 sts, (1htr 2ch 1htr into the corner space, 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo of last st, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr into next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 4 sts changing to Yarn C in fyo, dc5tog changing to Yarn A in fyo, 1htr in next 3 sts) rep around until you reach the first st of the round and slst into the top of the 2ch. (20htr & 4 dc5tog on each side).

Round 11 Ch2 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into every ch space. Slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (26 htr on each side = 104htr).

Round 12 Join Yarn B into any st. Ch1 and work 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of Ch1 to close round, fasten off and break yarn. (112 dc)

Round 13 Join Yarn A into any st. Rep Round 12. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 dc)

And there you have it, a choice of two Making Stitches 2025 CAL squares for July. I hope you enjoy making them as much as I did!

If you do make one or both of these squares and want to share them online, please tag me in your social media posts using the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL and then I will be able to see them.

Thanks so much for joining me on this my first ever CAL, it’s been so much fun for me so far and so lovely to see some of my squares out there in the wild!

Happy hooking!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL : Part Six

Summer Solstice Square

Hello! Welcome to June! Summer is officially here in my part of the world (although the weather may not always feel like it at times). When I think of June I always think of the midpoint in the year, the solstice – so what better symbol to have in the centre of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL June square than the sun?

image shows a selection of part made granny squares laid out on a table in the sunlight

As with my travails in April, coming up with this design (which in principle I had in my head from January) in practice wasn’t quite as simple as I thought it would be. I played with rising or setting suns, stained glass window effects and textured centres for the sunshine. It took a lot of jiggery pokery but eventually, I got there and was happy with this attempt. I do hope you approve. I had so much love for last month’s May Blossom square, that it feels like quite a hard act to follow!

As I have mentioned in the patterns for the other 2025 CAL squares, the whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I have included the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Each square is made to a similar basic pattern and should have 120 stitches in the final round to make joining easier at the end.

☀️So without further ado, it’s time to take you through the steps to make the Making Stitches 2025 CAL June Summer Solstice Square….☀️

2025 Making Stitches CAL Part Six : June – Summer Solstice

To make this square, I used Stylecraft Special DK  in (A) Citron (1263), (B) Denim (1302), (C) Cloud Blue (1019).

You will also need a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, a stitch marker, and a yarn needle.

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble, FPTrTr = Front Post Triple Treble, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble, yo = yarn over hook.

In case you haven’t come across a FPTrTr before, you begin the st with yo 3 times = 4 loops on your hook. You will work around a st in a round/row below the round/row you are working. Once you have inserted the hook where it needs to be, through the front of the work, around the back of the st and back through the front of the work again, yo and draw the loop back through from around the st (you will now have 5 loops on your hook). Complete the triple treble at in the usual way – yo and pull through 2 loops 4 times.

Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

Please note, this pattern is written in UK Crochet terms.

Central Sun motif

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. Pull the central yarn tail tight to close MC. Fasten off and cut yarn. (12tr)

Round 2 In this round, you will be working into the space between the stitches of the previous round. Join A into one of the spaces, ch3 (counts as a tr) and work another tr into this space, then work 2tr into every space around. Slst into the top of the ch3 to close the round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (24tr)

Round 3A In this round, you will be working into the space between the pairs of tr sts of the previous round to create the suns rays. Join A into one of the space between the pairs of tr sts from round 2. Ch4 (counts as a dtr) and work a dtr into the same space, (ch3, work 2dtr into next space between pairs of tr sts) rep around, ch3 and slst into top of the ch4 to close the round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (12 pairs of dtr & 12 x 3chs)

Round 3B Using Yarn B, join yarn into blo of an unworked st between the pairs of suns rays on round 2. Ch3 (counts as a tr) and work 3 more tr into that st, work 4tr into blo of the other unworked sts between the suns rays, slst into top of ch3 to close round. (12 x 4tr clusters)

Round 4 In this round, you will be crocheting 4dc over the top of the 3chs of round 3A between the pairs of suns rays to hide them within your work while working into the top of the 4tr clusters of 3B. You will also work 1dc over the top of the link between the pair of dtr suns rays and working that dc into the space between the 4tr clusters.

Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1dc around the 3ch and into every tr of the tr cluster and 1dc between the dtr of round 3A into the space between the 4tr cluster. At the end of the round, slst into the top of the 1st dc to close round. [Sorry for the garbled explanation – I can’t think of a better way to phrase it! Please refer to the photos below] (60 dc)

Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as a st) (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr  into next 2 sts, 1tr into next 2 sts, dtr + 2ch = dtr into next st,  1tr into next 2 sts, 1htr into next 2 sts, 1dc into next 3 sts) repeat around. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. You now have a square. (64 sts)

Border

Round 6 Join C into any st, work 1dc into every st around and 1dc + 2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of 1st dc to close round. Fasten off and cut yarn. (72 dc)

Round 7 Join B into any st. Ch2 (counts as htr), working blo work 1htr into every st around and 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into every corner space. Slst into top of ch2 to close round. (80 htr)

Round 8 Ch2 (counts as htr), work 1htr into every st around, 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into every corner space. Slst into top of ch2 to close round. (88 htr).

Round 9 Rep Round 8. Fasten off and cut the yarn. (90 htr)

Round 10 In this round you will be adding extra sun rays to the border. Join A, 2 sts before a corner space. Ch1 (does not count as a st) 1dc into the last 2 sts before the corner, 1dc 2ch 1dc into the corner space, 1dc into next 4 sts, 1FPTrTr around the 3rd st of Round 7, miss the next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 3 sts, 1FPTrTr around the base of the 1st FPTrTr, miss the next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 2 sts, 1FPTrTr around 10th st of Round 7, miss next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 3 sts, FPTrTr around the base of the 3rd FPTrTr, miss the next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 2 sts, 1FPTrTr around 17th st of Round 7, miss next st of Round 9, 1dc into next 3 sts, 1FPTrTr around base of 5th fptrtr, miss next st of Round 9, 1dc into rest of sts along the side, 1dc 2ch 1dc into the corner space. Repeat this process around the square and slst into the top of the first dc to close the round. Fasten off and cut the yarn.  (80dc & 24 FPTrTr)

Round 11 Join B into any st, 2ch (counts as a st), 1htr into every st around, 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corners space, rep around and slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and cut the yarn. (112 htr)

Round 12 Join C into any st, 1dc (does not count as a st), 1dc into every st around, 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. (120 dc) 

And that’s your Summer Solstice Square complete!

🌸A selection of May Blossom Squares 🌸

Thank you to everyone who has joined in so far and shared their makes on social media with the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL, it’s been great witnessing so many beautiful May Blossom Squares blooming online! I’m very much looking foward to seeing lots of sunny solstice squares brightening up Instagram in the coming weeks!

☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️

If you make a June Summer Solstice Square and you share it online, please either tag me in your post or use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see what you have done!


☀️Happy sunshining!☀️
Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Four : April

Hello and welcome to Part 4 of the Making Stitches 2025 CAL! I decided this month to follow the weather theme and opted for April Showers. It felt a bit silly to be honest during the beautiful sunny spring days we have been enjoying of late to think about the rain, but it is normal at this time to year, in my part of the world to experience a little precipitation!

The whole point of this CAL is to be a stash buster project to help you get rid of some of your odds and ends of yarn left over from previous projects. I am certainly using it for that purpose!

I have made my squares using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I will include the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

Here goes for April…

2025 Making Stitches CAL Part Four : April – April Showers

As I said before, this pattern is meant to be a stash buster project however, if you would like to use the same yarn as I did, here’s what I used to make this square: Stylecraft Special DK in (A) Silver ( 1203), (B) Cloud Blue (1019), (C) Wisteria (1432), (D) Violet (1277), (E)Aster (1003), (F) Grass Green (1821), (G) Citron (1263), (H) Clementine & (I) Matador (1010).

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, flo = work in front loop only, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.
Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

Note: when working the dc rows to form the border it can tend to make the tension of the stitches a bit tighter thus making this square a bit smaller than the others. If you relax and don’t work too tightly or even move up a hook size, it shouldn’t be a problem.

Please note, this pattern is written using UK crochet terms

Central cloud motif

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2A Working in FLO (2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2tr, 2htr) x2. (24 sts)

Round 3A slst into next 2 sts, (2dc, 1dc) x9, slst into next st. Turn. (27dc + 3 slst)

Round 4A 1dc (2dc, 1dc, 1dc) x3, 1dc in next 6 sts, (2dc, 1dc, 1dc) x3, 1dc. Turn. (32dc)

Round 5A (Miss next 2 sts, 5tr in next st, miss next 2 sts, slst in next st) x5. Fasten off & break yarn. (5x 5tr shells).

Creating the square

Round 2B With Yarn A, join yarn in one of the back loops of Round 1. Ch2, 2htr into every BLO around. Slst into top of first 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (24 htr)

Round 3B With Yarn B, join yarn into any st. Ch2, (2tr, 1tr in next st) rep around. Slst into top of ch2. (36 tr)

Round 4B Ch1, (2dc, 1dc in next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into ch1. (48 dc)

Round 5B Ch 2, (2tr, 1tr in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into ch2. Fasten off and break yarn. (60 tr)

Round 6 (It’s time to square your circle) Join Yarn B into the stitch directly below the middle of the bottom of the cloud. (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + ch2 + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1 and fasten off. Break yarn. (64 sts)

Round 7

Note: when working the dc rows to form the border it can tend to make the tension of the stitches a bit tighter thus making this square a bit smaller than the others. If you relax and don’t work too tightly or even move up a hook size, it shouldn’t be a problem.

Round 7 With yarn C, join in any st. 1dc into every st around and work 1dc +2ch + 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of 1st st, fasten off and break yarn. (72 dc)

Round 8 With Yarn D, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (80 dc)

Round 9 With Yarn E, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (88 dc)

Round 10 With Yarn F, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (96 dc)

Round 11 With Yarn G, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (104 dc)

Round 12 With Yarn H, join in any st. Rep Round 7. (112 dc)

Round 13 With Yarn I, join in any st. Ch2, 1htr into every st around, and work 1htr + 2ch + 1htr into each corner space. Fasten off and break yarn. (120 htr)

Square at the end of Round 13
Sunshine & raindrops

Sunshine (make 1)

Using Yarn G, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch2, 2tr into every st around. Fasten off and break yarn. (24tr)

Raindrops (make 3)

Using Yarn E, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into MC, 2ch, slst into 1st of 2 chains to make a picot. Slst into top of 1st dc. Fasten off and break yarn, pulling the central tail tightly to close the middle.

Once you have completed the sunshine and raindrops, lie the sunshine partially under the edge of the cloud and sew the sunshine into place using the yarn tails. Then, carefully attach the edge of the cloud to the square and over the top of the sunshine. Pin the three raindrops into place underneath the rain cloud and once you are happy with their positioning, sew them securely into place.

Finally, weave in any loose ends on the back of the square and the rainbow border.

And your April Square is complete.

Thank you so much for joining me on this CAL adventure. It’s been quite a ride so far. I have to admit that this month’s square had me for an April Fool. Despite being, arguably, the simplest square to create, I just couldn’t get it right. Initially it was going to be an umbrella, then, once I’d settled on the cloud, I couldn’t get the shape right. Then I struggled to find the right border for it. I got there in the end! I hope you like it.

A glimpse behind the scenes at my April foolishness. Just look at all those ends!!

Thank you to everyone who has joined in so far and shared their makes on social media with the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL, it was so lovely over the past few weeks to see lots of March ‘Spring Flower’ squares blooming all over the place!

Some blooming marvelous March Spring flowers

If you join in with the April Shower’s square, please do let me see your makes – it makes my day to see them!

Enjoy!

Lindsay x

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Three : March

Hello and welcome to March! Happy St David’s Day and happy first day of meteorological spring! What better time than to crochet ourselves some spring flowers?

March Spring Flowers

The days are getting longer in my part of the world, you can see the leaf buds beginning to form on the trees and there are plenty of spring flowering bulbs around. Crocus seem to be at their best right now and my first daffodil flower opened yesterday just in time for this pattern release! March to me, says spring, early spring no doubt, but spring nonetheless!

As with the previous two squares for the Making Stitches 2025 CAL, the colours I have used are not prescriptive. I have made them using my own stash of Stylecraft Special DK yarns and I will include the names and numbers of the shades I’ve used in case you want to replicate what I have done exactly, but you can use any yarn you like. The only thing you need to do is make sure it’s all the same weight, ie all DK or all Aran or whatever yarn you choose, and if you are making the whole project along with me, make sure all your squares are made using the same weight and the same size of crochet hook to make sure they all measure the same size so they can be joined together easily at the end.

So, without further ado, here goes…

2025 Making Stitches CAL Part Three : March – Spring Flowers Square

The Spring Flowers March Square

This pattern is meant to be a stash buster project however, if you would like to use the same yarn as I did, here’s what I used to make this square: Stylecraft Special DK in (A) Clementine (1853), (B) Citron (1263), (C) Meadow (1065), (D) Violet (1277).

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, flo = work in front loop only, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet, trtr = triple treble.
Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

NOTE: The floral buds of the ‘tulip stitch’ in Round 9 are made by making 5tr into the centre of the V stitch created in Round 8. Once you complete the 5th tr, take your hook out of the working loop and insert it into the top of the 1st tr from front to back, then back through the working loop and close the bud with a slst.

Central Daffodil motif:

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in every st around. Slst into top of ch1. (24dc)

Round 3A (Trumpet) Ch1, working into the flo, 1htr into every st around. Slst into top of ch1. (24htr)

Round 4A (Frill) (1dc & 1htr into first st, slst into next st)rep around. Fasten off. This will result in a frill with 12 ‘lumps’.

Round 3B (Petals) Join Yarn B into blo of one of the sts in Round 2. (Ch6, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in next ch, 1tr in next ch, 1trtr in next ch, 1trtr in last ch. Miss next 3 blo in Round 2 and Slst into blo of 5th st). Rep around until you have 5 petals ending with a slst into the same blo where you began. Fasten off.

Round 3C (Beginning the square) Join Yarn C into one of the back loops of Round 2, ch2, (2tr in blo of 1st st, 1tr in blo of next st) rep around – making sure you work into all 24 sts even the ones where the petals are attached with a slst. Slst into top of 2ch. (36tr)

Round 4 Ch2, (2tr in first st, 1tr into next 2 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1. (48tr)

Round 5 Ch1, (2dc in first st, 1dc into next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1. (60dc)

Round 6 (It’s time to square your circle) Ch1, (1dc in next 3 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr + ch2 + 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts) rep around. Slst into top of ch1 and fasten off. (64 sts)

At this stage you can neatly sew the petals of the daffodil in place attaching them to the background square. I used the yellow yarn and very small stitches so they aren’t obvious. Once they are sewn into place and stop curling up, they look much more like a daffodil!

Round 7 Join Yarn A in any st. Ch1, 1dc into every st around and work 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of ch1 and fasten off. (72 dc)

Round 8 Join Yarn C in a corner space, ch5 + 1tr into that corner space, *miss 1st st, 1tr + 1ch + 1tr into 2nd st, (miss 2 sts, 1tr + 1ch + 1tr in next st) repeat along the first side to the corner space, 1tr 2ch 1tr into the corner space, repeat from * on next 3 sides (missing the final 1tr 2ch 1tr as this has already been formed at the start of the round) slst into the 3rd of the starting 5ch. Fasten off. There should be 6 V stitches on each side plus one in each corner by the end of the round.

Round 9 Join Yarn D in the centre of the first V stitch of a side created in Round 8 (on the right as you look at it) . Ch2 & 5tr into that V stitch. Once you have competed the 5th tr, remove the hook from the working loop and insert it into the top of the 1st tr from front to back, then back through the working loop and close the top of the flower bud with a slst. *Ch2 and make the next flower bud in the next V stitch (5tr, remove hook from loop, insert it into top of first tr from front to back and then back through the working loop. Close the bud with a slst. Ch2) repeat until you have 6 buds along the side and you have reached the corner space. Work another flower bud as before, ch4, and make a 2nd flower bud into the same corner space V stitch. Repeat the process from * along the three remaining sides of the square. Slst into the top of the first bud and fasten off. (32 buds)

(I am aware that the photos below don’t show the row beginning the V stitch I suggested above – please ignore that fact and stick to the written instructions!)

Round 10 Join Yarn C in a corner space. Ch1, (2dc 2ch 2dc into the corner space, work 1dc into the top of the first bud, work 2dc into the ch space, repeat along the side with 1dc in each bud and 2dc into each ch space). Rep on each side and slst into the top of the 1st dc. Fasten off. (104 dc)

Round 11 Join Yarn A in any st, ch1 and 1dc into every st around working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of ch1 and fasten off. (112 dc)

Round 12 Join Yarn B into any st, ch1 and 1dc into every st around working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of ch1 and fasten off. (120 dc).

Your square is complete now. Weave in the ends and block it to make a nice neat square.

You can alter the colours you choose for the outer rows

I chose purple for the flower bud row with the intention that they should look like crocus flowers, but you could use any colour you want to – I think the combination of rounds 8 & 9 are know as a ‘tulip stitch’ and they do look rather like tulips. As tulips come in all shades of pink, red, purple, yellow, white and even black you can go wild!

It was so lovely over the past few weeks to see lots of February ‘All You Need is Love’ squares appearing on my phone – a few of which appeared within 24 hours of publishing the pattern which utterly blew me away! If you are joining in and making a March square, please do use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see if any ‘Spring Flower’ squares start blooming all over the place!

Some of the February ‘All You Need is Love’ Squares which popped up on my phone during February!

If you have been inspired by my daffodil square design and fancy hooking up some more daffs, you might be interested in my Up the Garden Path patterns for Dave & Cariad. You can find a free pattern for Dave on my blog here or a paid-for pattern for this lovely pair over in my Etsy shop here.

Whatever you’re up to this month, I hope it is filled with creativity and spring flowers for you.

Enjoy!

Lindsay x

🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷🌼🌷

The 3 Making Stitches 2025 CAL blocks so far…

Making Stitches 2025 CAL Part Two : February

Hello there! And hello February! A new month can mean only one thing round these parts, and that’s a new square for the Making Stitches 2025 CAL.

Allow me to introduce you to the ‘All You Need is Love’ square! It’s a pretty straightforward pattern following a similar route as the January snowflake square. It begins in the round, forms a central motif and turns into a square later on.

I really couldn’t decide what colours to choose, so I went for all of them (almost)! This pattern is written following the same colours as this rainbow themed square below, but it can be created using as few as 2 different shades of yarn. I can’t wait to see what colours everyone uses when some February squares get shared on social media!

Making Stitches 2025 CAL February All You Need is Love Square

Are you ready? Well here goes….

2025 CAL Part Two: February – All You Need is Love Square

When trying to think of something to feature in February’s square which was connected to the month in question, I did consider a few options, snowdrops, camellias even, but I am afraid the hearts won out. This square is inspired by love, love for the special people & things in our lives, family, friends, partners, pets & even crochet! So please forgive me for opting for the obvious solution for February, however I didn’t necessarily mean to celebrate romantic love and St Valentine’s Day, but love in general – it’s a wonderful thing you know.

This pattern is meant to be a stash buster project however, if you would like to use the same yarn as I did, here’s what I used to make this square: Stylecraft Special DK in (A) Matador (1010) for the central heart motif, (B) Silver (1203) for the background colour, (C) Graphite (1063), (D) Citron (1263), (E) Clementine (1853), (F) Violet (1277), (G) Aster (1003), (H) Grass Green (1821).

I also used a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, stitch markers, and a yarn needle.

Abbreviations (in UK terms): blo = work in back loop only, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, flo = work in front loop only, fyo = final yarn over, htr = half treble crochet, mc = magic circle / magic ring, MHC = Mini Heart Cluster (see NOTE below), rep = repeat, slst = slip stitch, st = stitch, tr = treble crochet.

Tension: Tension isn’t important for this project as long as you maintain the same tension throughout the project so all your squares are the same size. Once blocked this square will measure approximately 20cm x 20cm. The stitch count of the final round of each finished square will be 120 plus corner chain spaces.

NOTE: To make a ‘Mini heart cluster’ or an ‘MHC’ miss the next st in the round, and work str 2ch 2tr into the following st ie: [2tr + 2ch + 2tr]. To make a smooth colour change, change to the colour of the heart in the final yarn over of the previous st and change back to the background colour with the final yarn over of the last tr of the cluster. Remember to leave the its immediately before and after the mini heart cluster unworked so the cluster can spread open like a heart.

You can make the square in a variety of colourways

Heart 

Using Yarn A, make a MC.

Round 1 Ch2 (not counted as a st throughout), 12 tr into MC. Slst into top of ch2 to close the round. (12tr)

Round 2A In flo, slst 1tr, 4dtr, 2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 1htr 1tr 1dtr ch2 slst into 1st ch, 1dtr 1tr 1htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 4dtr, 1tr 1slst.

[To be clear; working in the front loop only, make 1slst & 1tr into 1st st, 4dtr into 2nd st, 2tr into 3rd st, 2htr into 4th st, 2dc into 5th st, 1htr + 1tr + 1dtr + ch2 + slst into 1st ch all worked into 6th st and so on around the 12 front loops of Round 1]

Round 2B In blo of Round 1, 2dc into every st around marking 1st with a stitch marker so it’s easy to spot when you reach the end. Slst into top of first st. Fasten off and break yarn. (24 dc)

Round 3A [This is the 3rd & final Round of the heart motif] Rejoin Yarn A into the top of 1st st of Round 2A. In next st make 2tr, then 3tr, 2tr, 2htr, 1htr + 1dc, 1dc in next 8 sts, 1dc 2ch slst into 1st ch 1dc, 1dc in next 8 sts, 1dc + 1htr, 2htr, 2tr, 3tr, 2tr, slst. Fasten off and weave in the end. 

Round 3A

Square

Round 3B Join Yarn B into any st of Round 2B and ch2 (does not count as a st) 2tr, 1tr rep around. Slst into top of ch2 to close round. (36 tr)

Round 4 Ch2, 2tr, 1tr in next 2 sts around. Slst into top of ch2 to close round.  (48 tr)

Round 5 Ch1, 2dc, 1dc in next 3 sts, rep around. Slst into top of ch1 to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (60 dc)

Round 6 It’s useful to mark the first dc with a stitch marker so you know where to stop! Join Yarn B in the st directly above the centre of the heart. Ch1, 1dc in next 3 sts, (1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch dtr in next st to form corner of square, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6dc) three times, 1htr in next 2 sts, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1dtr 2ch 1dtr, 1tr in next 2 sts, 1htr in next 2 its, 1dc in next 3 sts. Slst into top of first ch1 to close the round. (64 sts)  

Round 7 Join Yarn C into any st, ch1, 1dc into every stitch around and work 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner space. Slst into top of ch1 to close round. (Each side will have 18 sts – 72dc in total)

Round 8 Join Yarn B into any st, 2ch, 1htr into every st around working 1htr 2ch 1htr into each corner space. Slst into top of 2ch to close round. Fasten off and break yarn. (Each side will have 20 htr – 80 htr in total).

Weave in the ends and sew the heart into place onto the backing square using small stitches in Yarn A so they aren’t visible.

Round 9 Join Yarn B in the last st before the top right hand corner, ch2 & 1htr into that st, 1htr ch2 1htr into the corner space. 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn D with the fyo of 3rd htr, miss the next st and make a mini heart cluster by working [2tr + 1ch + 2tr] into next st changing back to Yarn B in fyo of 4th tr, miss next st, with Yarn B 1htr in next 3 sts changing to Yarn E with fyo of 3rd htr, make another MHC (the section in square brackets above) changing to Yarn B with fyo of 4th tr, miss next st, and with Yarn B work 1htr into next 3 sts changing to Yarn A with fyo of the 3rd htr, miss next st and work a MHC into next st, miss following st and work 1htr into next 3 sts, work 1htr 2ch 1htr into corner space and repeat the process down the left hand side of the square making your MHCs in Yarns F, G & H to follow the rainbow pattern. Once you reach the bottom edge of the square repeat the pattern as worked along the top edge and on the right hand side, repeat the pattern as worked on the left hand side. Slst into top of ch2 to close round (56htr &12 mini heart clusters).

If you don’t want to have multi coloured hearts around the border of your square you can use just one contrasting colour. Change between the background and the heart colour in the fyos as detailed above and catch the non-working yarn within your stitches to save breaking the yarn and having lots of ends to weave in later.

Round 10 Please read the instructions of this round before starting! Using Yarn B, ch2, 1htr into every htr around, and 1htr 2ch 1htr in each corner space. When you reach the sts above a MHC work 1ch to jump over the first 2 tr of the cluster, work 1dc into the ch space in the middle of the cluster and 1ch to jump over the 2nd 2 tr of the cluster before working 1htr into the htrs between the MHCs. Slst into the top of the first 2ch to close the round. (On each side: 16htr, 6ch & 3dc)

Round 11 Ch1, 1dc around into every st and ch spaces above each MHC & working 1dc 2ch 1dc into each corner. Slst into top of ch1 to close the round. Fasten off and break yarn. (26 dc on each side and 104 dc in total)

Round 12 With Yarn C, join into any st, ch1 and 1dc into every st around, working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of first st to close round. (28dc on each side and 112 dc in total).

Round 13 Ch1 and 1dc into every st around, working 1dc 2ch 1dc into every corner space. Slst into top of first st and fasten off, weave in all the ends. (30 dc on each side ad 120 st in total).


It was so lovely over the past few weeks to see lots of January snowflake squares being texted to me from friends and appearing on social media. If you are joining in and making a February square, please do use the hashtag #MakingStitches2025CAL so I can see if any ‘All You Need is Love’ squares make an appearance!

Enjoy!

Lindsay x

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜🤍🩷🩵🤎🖤